Kenzo Spring Summer 2018
Asian models, only. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim celebrated two icons of Japan where Kenzo as brand finds its deep roots back to founder Kenzo Takada.
The collection explores the personalities of master musician Ryuichi Sakamoto and topmodel Sayoko Yamaguchi for Spring Summer 2018 menswear and Womenswear respectively. A beautiful look at their world, their time, their influences to Kenzo.
It’s as we were allowed to jump back into the past where Ryuichi Sakamoto was playing with its pioneer electronic group “Yellow Magic Orchestra” in the late 70s, and during the solo years composing the spectacular soundtracks for Bernardo Bertolucci’s “The Last Emperor” in the late 80s first and “The little Buddha” in the early 90s.
His individualism hinting to classic English tailoring mixed with Japanese 50s baseball culture is the main inspiration for Leon and Lim. It is a beautiful collection, eclectic in its preppy style and avant-garde attitude.
The extremely high-waisted trousers are matched with graphic tees printed with original images by Sakamoto himself. It’s the late 70s, the 80s, but more than a specific decade it’s the unique creative persona of Sakamoto.
For the Womenswear collection Leon and Lim channelled Sayoko Yamaguchi personality in the clashing of stripes, prints, coloured and bold sequined look: a love letter to the iconic top model and Kenzo Takada’s muse. Frills, feminine pieces next to more graphic ones.
The accessories are a striking element. Reminiscent of traditional Japanese accessories, they are reworked with pop colour, neon materials or stripes. The bags recall the beautiful satin pouches carried by Japanese women dressed up in kimonos during summer festivals with all that vintage allure.
All framed in a spectacular live performance by singer Lafawndah and aerial dancers on the façade’s courtyard of the show venue. An inspiring ending of this fashion week.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
“Too old to die”, “Don’t be body shaming”, “Give me one more chance”
It's rare to see an icon like Yohji Yamamoto reinventing himself with such a savoir faire season after season.
For Men's SS18 Yohji Yamamoto channelled his vision in a poetic exercise aiming to discover the younger generations in his team, keeping that signature we have loved long since.
Spectacular ethereal velvet, leather bomber jackets in pop colours and notes scribbled all over this touching collection.
Yohji Yamamoto reflects on the afterlife, on the future of the brand once he will depart this world.
It is a collection with the signature’s black palette and those powerful and visceral scribbles we have seen often in Yohji Yamamoto’s oeuvre, with Japanese calligraphy and its English counterpart next to it. Messages to the future. Sentences echoing in space look after look.
As the models enter the catwalk in the Headquarters of the brand we have felt all these emotional connotations. The future of Yohji Yamamoto’s legacy, the integrity of his signature in the time soon to come.
There were beautiful coloured leather jackets painted in collaboration with artist Saitoh Yusuke with portraits of Japanese actress Eiko KOIKE who will be the new face for the upcoming Yohji Yamamoto’s catalogues
But also the self portraits of artist Suzume Uchida, depicting herself as ghost. It’s the circle of life, as seen in Buddhist philosophy, repeating itself: death, rebirth, and the continuation of life in loop.
Hermès Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
A specific red hue named "H", a deep, intense red spacing between burgundy and brick colour. Splashed on Hermes Spring Summer 2018, together with taupe, navy, royal blue.
It's a collection full of playful graphics, sporty and smart.
Veronique Nichanian’s normcore for Hermes Menswear has been balanced on relaxed silhouettes, cotton suits, leather sandals, paper-thin knitwear in caramel on top of emerald green chinos, a white shirt with a cardigan, a spectacular crocodile bomber in black.
Nichanian’s Hermes is that power dressing far from being loud, that discreet approach with a French attitude. Wear a pair of casual trousers, a beautiful fresh pullover, a sporty anorak on top and you are ready to be off duty in a breezy summer night. And yes, with sneakers. It is the quintessential vision of Hermes, its discreet approach and the meticulous leather work.
As the versatile big tote bag and the lambskin bomber jackets with contrasting stitching hint to baseball references it gives a different angle to this historical Maison and its equestrian heritage.
Valentino Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
Pierpaolo Piccioli looks at the strength of sportswear language and the fascinating realm of competition, of the authentic research of the self expression.
Fresh, modern, looking at the street in a creative exercise to conquer the nowness and youthful audience.
Valentino Menswear for Spring Summer 2018 is a powerful collection channelling that empowering energy of sport exploring undiscovered territories, far away grounds in search of new moments. Anorak, track jackets, chinos, relaxed shirts, volumes and a wonderful urban appeal.
This new journey of Pierpaolo Piccioli at the reign of the brand bonds this new fresh appeal to the craftsmanship, to the Atelier, and that Valentino etherealness.
A geometric graphical approach and a broad colour palette like khaki, a mint, pink, red, brown, next to black and electric blue.
VLTN, a new lettering reworking Valentino logo in black capital letters emblazoned in shirts and outwear gave new dynamics to the menswear approach of the brand It’s a relaxed collection with a strong identity.
The sporty volumes of jackets and the impressive collection of sneakers– the protagonists of the collection - with the cross stitching, embroideries, beaded details and handwork embellishments recalling a distant tribal folklore bring the Menswear ground of Valentino one step further to a new fresh sophisticated DNA.
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection was a sun-drenched collection of Riviera inspired pieces designed by Guillaume Meilland that exuded a leisurely lifestyle and the understated elegance synonymous with the iconic Italian maison.
If that’s hard to picture just think of Alain Delon and Marcello Mastroianni summering seaside in all their laid-back, effortless glamour. Bringing this aesthetic and grounding it in today’s reality, Ferragamo banks on the feeling of escapism supported by a breezy colour palette dominated by earthy hues, ivory, subdued pinks and light blues with a dash of hazy blues and deep mahogany.
Formal and casual styles focus on light silhouettes for a deconstructed feel that’s very in keeping with this season’s ‘from desk chair to beach lounger’ aesthetic without neglecting, of course, the addition of details intrinsically linked to Ferragamo’s leather savoir-faire.
Terrycloth, corduroy and velour are given a beachy makeover, revisited with a softer hand and decorated with subtle marine patterns featuring wreathes, corals and seahorses for Bermuda shorts, coats and jackets.
Contrasting this, classic British checks and fabrics are rendered pared-down and minimal, fluid and light while they manage to retain a casual disposition that wouldn’t stick out even in formal settings.
Legacy and immediacy, both core values for Ferragamo, manifest themselves through the offering of leather pieces that were bound to take centre stage for yet another season. Shapes may be roomy or slim but they are unlined and void of superfluous elements yet meticulously crafted with a strong focus on details. Why change a winning recipe?
Missoni Spring/Summer 2018
Even though it wasn’t made explicitly clear, all elements point to a collection dedicated to an urban gardener, quite possibly Angela Missoni’s father whom her mother fondly referred to as ‘her gardener’. With a long-standing love for gardening that spans across generations of Missoni offsprings, this appears to be a well-founded claim.
Missoni’s style has always been characterised by an ease and effortlessness that many brands have tried to emulate throughout the years. Tried being the operative word here as this is exactly the element that should be missing from such an equation.
Lavender, periwinkle, indigo, cherry, blossom, apricot, shadow blue, mint, bamboo and red birch fabrics were dyed, blended and then washed to achieve that faded, almost blurred effect that screams Missoni from miles away.
The silhouettes were relaxed in a way that oozes stylish comfort, accentuated by fabrics that enhance that same aesthetic: slouchy utility pants with a lived-in feel in linen, for example or lightweight wools and cotton crepes. Denim was also given its time to shine in Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear collection – it was washed an appeared to have accompanied the man wearing it on many a relaxed adventures.
A bright and summery mood without trends or frills, bells or whistles, a calm joyfulness that exudes happiness much like a well-tended garden under the summer sun.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2018
The starting point for any creation, whether this refers to fashion, art or any other medium of expression, is a clear and defined point of view. The rest will inevitably follow suit. Palm Angels’ artistic director Francesco Ragazzi brought that to the table in abundance for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection.
LA's skater culture is reinterpreted through Ragazzi’s Italian frame of mind, highlighting its laissez faire attitude and the idea of a life lived according to ones individual rulebook. Palm Angels stems from that same appreciation for American cultures and subcultures as it merges an appreciation for sartorial codes and a penchant for clothes being utilised as identity tropes and zeitgeist signifiers.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection is entitled Black Sun and it pays homage to yet another enduring American subculture: surfing. Bold silhouettes and pragmatic forms are visible in the offering of parkas, duster coats, field jackets and boxy shirts that walked the runway in Milan Fashion Week. Boarding shorts, miniskirts and scuba suits were not neglected either.
Presented with the addition of functional details such as drawstrings and dangling straps, the collection also featured hints of formality in the shape of a tailored blazer that veered off the beaten path to the office and ended up beachside.
In a palette of red, black, orange, sand and grey with sun-faded effects that afford it a disobedient tone, Palm Angels’ sporty physicality acts as the link between the men’s and women’s collection.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Thom Browne brought his signature hand-made tailoring sensibility to Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring Summer 2018 Menswear collection. Thus was born a perfect conflation between Browne’s flair and the brand’s expertise in active sportswear and outerwear for a collection that highlights an ease in seasonal transitions.
Down-filled looks made with over-sized plastic zippers and worn over identical looks without the down-filling epitomise the concept of smooth change. The collection was split into three colour-coded subcategories: grey and grey and white, red, white and blue and formal.
Trademark Thom Browne tailored pieces were present in traditional suit material iterations as well as more technical versions that incorporated highly functional fabrics such as technical wool and cashmere, nylon, ripstop, mesh and rainproof slicker.
Fendi pays homage to Rome with Giuseppe Penone's Foglie di Pietra
Following Giuseppe Penone’s Matrice exhibition hosted at Fendi’s headquarters in Rome’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, Fendi installs a new site specific artwork by the artist entitled Foglie di Pietra in Largo Goldoni. Thus, FENDI renews and highlights its undying bond with Rome by gifting the city and its people important artwork from one of the most celebrated contemporary sculptors.
Foglie di Petra (Leaves of Stone, 2016) is one of Penone’s most complex artworks: two tall bronze trees standing at 18 and 9 metres respectively, interlace their branches five metres above an 11-tonne sculpted marble rock. Archaeology and ruins, history and biology are intertwined with one another bringing attention to the permanent bond between nature and culture. A celebration of a deep synthesis between the flowing of natural and human time through a longing and romantic nostalgia for lost civilisations.
Through virtuous use of precious materials such as bronze and marble, Penone’s Foglie di Petra recalls the illusionism and marvel of Roman Baroque, while the fragments and the ruins inserted in the sculpture’s branches harken back to the Classic and Medieval era. What’s more, the artwork is the first oeuvre of a contemporary artist to be permanently installed in Rome’s public spaces and is bound to become a symbol of the identity of an ever-changing city that remains steadfastly linked to its historical roots.
Ermenegildo Zegna launches Bespoke Atelier
March 15th 2017, marks a pivotal stage for Ermenegildo Zegna, as it announces the opening of the first Bespoke Atelier. The space is dedicated to the label’s bespoke service and is locate at the top floor of the Zegna building in Milan’s renowned via Montenapoleone.
The stand-alone project revolves around the idea of intimate elegance with a distinctly Milanese feel and treats its bespoke services with a precise ritual. The experience begins right at the entrance where clients are welcomed by a valet and ushered in the Atelier which is conceived to comply with aesthetics and functionality of traditional tailoring ateliers: an apartment cum workshop with the public and working areas connected yet separable.
The large space is furnished with both vintage and new pieces as well as pieces that hark back to Zegna’s very own history. Warmth and charm intermingle with a domestic feel making this a truly unique tailoring experience that strengthens the dialogue between the Milanese brand and its customer base of men of discerning taste who aim to have their wardrobe made according tot heir own desires, demands and lifestyles.
Céline Fall/Winter 2017
“The spectator is caught under a cloudy or a starry sky, surrounded by ocean waves or masses of people running towards him, while he is entranced by the dramatic actions of the central round arena. The division between acting and the audience no longer exists. Words, light and music no longer have a set place […] The director alters position and spatial forms and mercilessly subjects the audience to the dynamics of his imaginations”.
Walter Gropius’s words during 1934 Volta congress in Rome resonate strong in Phoebe Philo’s setting choice for her Celine Fall/Winter 2017 show. It’s not the first time that a fashion designer is fascinated by the visionary ideas of the Bauhaus pioneer for his Total Theater, where the audience was supposed to revolve during the performance, shifting the spectators and the stage area to alter the viewer's scale of values and forcing them to participate in the act.
We have known Phoebe Philo for her no-nonsense vision and relaxed, elegant silhouettes as the embodying of the powerful, confident working woman who has no time for superfluous fuss. The catwalk was populated by a tribe of women, with their different life, different tempo, like we would find in any busy street.
At first glance Celine Fall Winter 2017 is just all that. Exceptional tailoring and gimmick-free looks: the long trench coat, oversized tuxedo blazers, long tunics with matching fluent pants for the day and a modern version of emperor dresses for a more dress-up feel, a crisp white shirt.
But Philo’s masterly created a collection again beautifully lying in the details, revealing its stance dramatically at a closer look.
The collection featured beautiful origami-like seam lines as mimicking the movement of the body and its presence. Like when you bend your harm and a crisp fabric would inevitably crease. It’s real life that Philo delicately suggests. Real women who don’t need to scream.
Mugler Fall/Winter 2017
Natasha Poli storming the catwalk in a blue patent leather blazer with arched shoulders and slim pantsuit. The atmosphere was fierce and as the models powerfully marched in one after the other, the message that creative director David Koma surely had in mind was clear: effortless and daring, Mugler’s woman will not be unnoticed.
Don’t be mistaken: this is a powerful and confident woman who will embrace her body, in all the declinations, with no fear.
David Koma created a collection constellated mainly with evening looks. Vertiginous minidresses with cut-out star details at the bottom hemline or embroidered on the bodice, hourglass silhouettes with pleated lamé in acid green and electric blue, a long white gown with pleated contrast silver lamé. But also power suits with sharp sculptural shoulders in contrasting colours, pants-blazer combo in white, silver, black.
The last look, a dress deconstructing the idea of a smoking suit into an evening gown, said it all: Koma is in search of reinventing the house codes, keeping the identity of this iconic brand strong.
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2017
The Faun, the nomads, the young rebels. But also the aristocracy and new gracious creatures. Jun Takahashi’s imaginary world for Undercover Fall Winter 2017 had the feeling of a long distant fairy tale fostering castles and princesses with gargantuan costumes and an ethereal atmosphere.
Like voices from afar, whispering a secret message, the sound of wind chimes as hung to push the spirits away, turning at the very end in a mesmerizing voice, singing on an incredible piano melody. Radiohead Thom Yorke’s fantasy, created ad oc for the show, was the perfect stage for Takahashi’s Utopia.
It was not just a spectacle. It was a beautiful collection where the clothes stood strong, masterly styled, layered and carefully balanced. Knitwear in long dresses, tunics and sculptural coats as out from Coppola’s brash “Marie Antoinette”. Fur trimmed puffa jackets and long velvet skirts. Sweatshirts with metal studs, embroidered with unicorns and insects. A beautiful crimson red, moss green, shades of cerulean blue and a bold yellow, painted this beautiful story. A story of humanity itself. The platform shoes and boots, reminiscent of the faun’s goat legs pushed this narrative image even further, in an enchanting atmosphere.
The Undercover show was a breeze of fresh air during a fashion week heavily politicised.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017: Forging Frontiers
Nicolas Ghesquière had one goal in mind for his Fall/Winter 2017 collection as head of Louis Vuitton – pushing boundaries like the legendary French fashion house has been doing since its 1854 beginnings. Frontiers are meant to be broken down and Louis Vuitton has been at the forefront of innovation, know-how, design and travel, all elements that set it apart from its counterparts are continue to characterise its offerings every season.
Ghesquière wanted to re-create that very sense of boundarylessness that doubled as more of a directional seasonal messages rather that an array of options for city living. This was an evocation of the nomadic, where the city blends with distant landscapes, the masculine blurs with the feminine and Louis Vuitton heritage meets a thirst for the future. A new play of stylistic lines emerges: great American sportswear classics and Slavic accents, inspirations from fashions of the past translated into the world of today, urban classics fused with the magnetic pull of folklore.
This may come as no surprise but beautifully-treated leather was central to this collection: super polished or crackled giving the impression of age and wear. What was perhaps more noteworthy is the attention that designer paid to fur this season. Short-sleeved, patch-worked jackets were paired with relaxed, cropped flares but could up the ante when thrown over an evening dress.
Ghesquière's evening wear offering moved away from last season's dramatic naked dresses. He opted instead for knee-length slip dresses with elaborate pleats, lace insets, sheer details and fabrics with clashing prints in an attempt to infuse the collection with an easy-going, laid-back attitude.
Raf Simons presents his Fall 2017 collection for Calvin Klein
Raf Simons' debut collection for Calvin Klein was a hotly-anticipated event in this year's New York Fashion Week calendar.
Remaining true to his allegiances, Simons enlisted the help of friend and artist Sterling Ruby, giving him free reign to imagine artwork appropriate for the iconic brand's headquarters. Ruby imagine America.
Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Creative Director, Pieter Mulier created a collection that featured both women's and menswear for Fall 2017 and is in itself an homage to America. “It reflects the environment” said Mr. Simons. “All of these different people with different styles and dress codes. It's the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American West... all of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty of emotion in America.”
This was a collection in which each piece communicated with the rest; one material impacted another and one style impacted the upcoming ones even in the same silhouettes making for a collection that echoes the essence of diversity.
Marching band uniforms, plastic coated protection, power broker tailoring and antique handcrafted quilting, workwear and westernwear made for this unique parade. The collection finds equal merit in folk and function, food court and courtroom in a romantic and filmic outsider's view of the uniqueness of America.
Iris Schomaker – Come to the Edge
Berlin based artist Iris Schomaker, will display her first Benelux exhibition “Come to the Edge” at the Reflex Gallery in Amsterdam showing off her expressive large-scale watercolor and oil-works on paper featuring figures in various states of repose.
The show will consist purely of new works representing an arresting close-up of a single figure, lying reading, resting, sitting curled up, unaware of the viewer’s gaze because “it’s more like a sudden glimpse-something unexpected. These figures do not offer contact. Their faces are blank, vanishing.” As the artist herself said.
Is exactly this blankness that took Iris to project on to the image looking at the very anonymity of those faces as an invitation to the viewers to bring something of their own being surrounded by powerfully immersive and contemplative figures. Moreover the figures in the newer works from the German artist are often accompanied by a symbolic animal that is more idea, atmosphere, and energy, more a sprit guide that brings a strange, irritating and inspiring energy rather than a flesh and bones companion.
In muted shades of black and grey, with only the thinnest veil of oil wash in faded aquamarine or yellow, the overall impression of the palette is decidedly monochrome. The figures are resolutely not portraits; the final creation is given by a work of research through images of unknown people like photos, sketches, ripped pages of magazines, combined with her drawing and creativity, in order to give birth to an incredible mix between classic paintings and current graphic novels.
The exhibition will run until April 26th 2017
Woolrich Re-imagines Men's Outerwear
Woolrich continues its long-standing tradition in conceiving and manufacturing technical outerwear of exceptional quality, a tradition born in the late 70s that has continued to be well-received by avid mountaineers.
The brand is relaunching its Mountain Jacket, one of the first examples of technical outerwear that ushered in the expansion of men's outdoor clothing in order to cater to the requirements of outdoor activities such as backpacking, camping and cycling. Designed with functional elements that suit the requirements of such activities, Woolrich's latest edition of the Mountain Jacket strikes the perfect balance between style and function thus also catering to the more aesthetically driven consumer.
A more contemporary style is brought to the fore ensuring maximum freedom of movement, comfort and warmth with its form-fitting cut, adjustable cuffs and ergonomic style. Gore-tex®'s lightest fabric, the Paclite, guarantees the best performance. Despite the air of innovation that characterises the latest jackets, the brand loyally adheres to the design elements of the late 70s that proved so successful in the past.
With a perfectly breathable waterproof Gore-tex® layer beneath the traditional durable and water repellent outer layer, the Mountain Jacket has proved itself to be a perfect companion for adventures in nature.
JUUN.J Fall/Winter 2017
As the models stormed inside Universite Rene Decartes’s suggestive neoclassic space, and the fluid body of Juun J’s work floated around, we caught the power of history. The history of this brand evolved within the last ten years into an acclaimed fashion forward entity. for this celebratory collection Juun J - in name of a decade spent imagining the future of his eponymous label - choose the emblematic subtitle: “Archive”.
Oversized long sweaters, heavy, massive, almost suffocating in all their fierce presence. The architectural outwear, the brand's signature trench coat and the MA1 bomber jacket. All the iconic pieces of Juun J’s past collections, in a splendid parade, as an ode to this Korean designer who has influenced the wardrobe of boys and girls in recent years. The girl who has been wearing Juun J forever and who got a special place in the future course: the new Juun J will have from now on feature a Womenswear collection.
And so the oversized cargo pants transformed into high waist long skirts with maxi pockets on the hips and slits on both sides which will be a hot piece for next season. Khaki, military green, black, white and pin-striped blue: the palette focused on the brand’s favoured colours. The large parachute hooded outwear with a myriad of swinging straps were certainly the protagonists, underlined in the closing act when all the possible declinations marched in, as if to suggest the impetuous movement and space of Juun J in the upcoming decade.
G-STAR RAW presents RAW RESEARCH II by Aitor Throup
Exploring the unlimited possibilities of denim has become Dutch brand G-STAR RAW's latest challenge. The brand presented its latest project, RAW RESEARCH II, in Paris' Palais De Tokyo.
Curiosity and experimentations brought this project to life creating a capsule collection, its pieces a prototype of the latest in denim innovation. The collection features a brand new 3D denim concept: the “ Motac” series. An ergonomic study of the human body in motion gave birth to Motac, created to make garments with perfect fit and versatility thanks to a combination of rigid denim and flexible fabric panels.
To pay homage to G-STAR RAW's homeland, its new creative director Aitor Throup used the iconic Dutch tulip as a conceptual backdrop. Tradition and innovation were brilliantly fused together.
Osservatorio Prada: the love story between cultural statements and fashion
An invisible thread silently connects fashion with art, a thread that only a few can pick up and follow. A feat that when achieved unlocks the secret behind timeless designers like Miuccia Prada.
Famous not only for creating garments and accessories that are considered pieces of art, Miuccia, has never hidden her devotion to art. Therefore, dedicating the famous Fondazione Prada based in Milan to art, seemed only natural. Collecting the most interesting exhibitions and pieces from contemporary and modern artists, Fondazione has become one of the most coveted destination for art-o-holics. Last December saw the opening of a new venue of Fondazione Prada that pays homage to photography and celebrates visual languages: Ossevatorio Prada.
Based in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the core of the Milanese fashion area, Osservatorio is a place of exploration and research of the latest tendencies and expressions of contemporary photography. Photography is, indeed, the contemporary epicenter of the global flux that digital communication is going through; that is why Osservatorio wants to unveil the cultural implications that it has on our society.
“Give Me Yesterday” by Francesco Zanot was the inaugural exhibition for Fondazione Prada's latest venue. A collection of more than fifty pieces of Italian and international artists that explores the usage of photography presented like a personal diary that travels from the 2000's to the present day.
Fondazione Prada’s contribution to the Italian art scene will leave an indelible mark, just like a photograph does.
Kenzo Fall/Winter Menswear 2017
Imagine the backstage of a show brought on stage, in the spotlight, able to witness it at 360°, as in Walter Gropius’s Total Theatre: from the make-up to the models line-up, from the food banquet to the backstage photographers roaming around, from the seamstress fixing the last detail seconds before the start to the laughs between models.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created this unexpected backdrop for Kenzo Menswear and Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection in the name of the environment, making clothes the real stars of the runway and leaving the backdrop in its neutrality in order to give funds to environment organizations instead of making a wonderful yet costly set.
A vision that was reflected all over this Arctic inspired collection. The triggering Arctic changes and the – unknown to many – Arctic surfing were, indeed, the paths followed by Leon and Lim who presented a multitude of over-layered looks in an impressive colour palette. It was overwhelming and, as Kenzo’s signature, fun and youthful.
The dip-dyed long knits in rainbow colours with matching ski masks worn under solid coloured puffa jackets and graphic digitally printed technical ski suits.
The Womenswear collection followed up in a more gentle and feminine declination. We saw easy urban long cable knit dresses, A –line coats, teddy handbags and delicate dresses with transversal side cuts, revealing floating strings, as a sort of intellectual reference to the increasingly undergoing destruction of our Mother Earth.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2017: Between High Fashion and Mother Nature
The uneven fight between humans against a powerful and merciless nature is the chore of Jil Sander's latest collection that brings us an incredible taste of glacial novelty for the upcoming Fall/Winter season.
Inspired by 'Independent People' by Nobel Prize winning author Halldor Laxness, the collection plays with the colors of Icelandic landscapes ranging from chalk grey to yellow. Shades of ice, brown and lava are chosen to give life to coats, parkas, heavy felts and comfortable shapes designed to face the harsh temperatures of Nordic winter in style. Military cotton and heat-sealed waterproof wool make coats and blousons, put together by big Velcro stripes.The collection's prints are a new take on glitch art that plays with disintegrated images.
“Rather keep your mind free and your path your own”said Laxness, and Jil Sander looks to have learned the lesson perfectly.
A sporty-chic Z ZEGNA at PITTI 2017
The latest Z Zegna collection takes you on a vintage ski trip for Pitti Uomo 2017, a sporty-chic mood that nobody expected but many welcomed.
It is no secret that the Florence fashion fair was created to bring innovation and prêt à porter all around the world and Zegna knows that well. For the first time the Italian brand presented a line that combines tailoring and performance evolution. For the slopes and the streets, the proposal is a Techmerino total look that takes a quintessential role in this season where layering is key. A foundation of matte black, optical woolen, asphalt grey mélange, light camel and pine leaf green in combination with sportswear graphics take us back to the late 70’s ski seasons in Sankt Moritz where sport never strays too far from fashion and elegance.
The brand decided to converge comfort and excellence in a savvy colour palette that pays tribute to the textile innovation Z Zegna is known for.
Colette x UNDEFETEAD: the hypes’ sneaker exchange
The hype around sneakers has never been so present. Parisian it store Colette, one of Europe's biggest go-to destinations for street-wear designer apparel has partnered with LA-based label UNDEFEATED for the much-anticipate “Sneaker Exchange”. Included in the exchange are no less than 84 brands like Bodega, END, Kith and Slam Jam just to name a few.
Two limited edition and revamped Adidas sneakers to be launched during Paris Fashion Week will be part of this January's exchange. The redesigned editions of iconic models, the Campus 80 and EQT Support. The Campus 80 is bright, in white leather with a royal blue heel while the EQT Support's darker influences are manifested through its deep navy blue shades.
Both models are playing with the concept of opposites, pairing and simultaneously contrasting influences, ideas and cultural currencies, personifying perfectly the concept of the exchange.
The Givenchy Tribe
Givenchy's latest campaign has just been released and the abundance of the brand's signature codes do not go unnoticed. Shot by photographers Mert and Marcus and designed as a double page spread, the campaign plays on the concept of duality and features powerful men and women whose intrepid natures manage to withstand space and time.
A well-balanced blend of feminine and masculine elements that remain classic and chic are the focal points of the campaign. Two girls become twins by dressing identically and a boy plays fashion chameleon by rocking a formal and a streetwear look in a Mars-like landscape. Pair the adventurous nature of the above with the tightly cropped portraits of Givenchy's personality gang and you are given the impression that, although they appear different they do in fact to belong to the same style-savvy tribe.
Of course, Givenchy's now iconic Horizon and Cross Body bags could not be left out of the equation. Serving as a mark of recognition for the brand, their presence encapsulates the luxury label's long-standing fame while looking towards a future of duality.
K•Swiss Turns Camo for its 50th anniversary
K•Swiss opted for a stylish celebration for its anniversary. The sportswear brand teamed up with Japanese street fashion label AAPE BY A BATHING APE to launch a limited edition collection.
For the occasion, the American tennis brand turns its classic '66 model into a fashionable camouflage sneaker featuring, its now famous, ape-inspired pattern. This makes for a fresh, new take on the brand's most iconic silhouette.
K•Swiss’ signature five stripes, classic D-rings and the unique three-piece toe design along with an all-covering printed pattern fuse together to creates a blend that reflects the DNA of both K•Swiss and AAPE.
Coach and The Webster: between ready-to-wear and Baseman’s designs
Many were the brands that presented their upcoming collections at Miami Art Basel, but it was Coach’s collaboration with The Webster and artist Gary Baseman that transformed it in a special universe of fashion pieces and design sketches.
To celebrate the arrival of the Women’s pre-spring collection and an exclusive preview of the Men’s Spring 2017, the three joined forces to create customized objects based on Baseman characters and his signature “Wildbeast” print.
American iconography is reflected all over the collections through juxtaposing unexpected images and familiar, nostalgic themes. Moreover, at the heart of the project a tougher take on masculinity takes over, celebrating those who are brave and bold enough to subvert conventions and status quo.
During the event, Baseman, gave attendees a sneak peek of the collection’s mood, hand-painting three one-of-a-kind motorcycle jackets.
Exclusive design for an exclusive experience.
Le Narcisse Blanc: pure Art de Vivre
Like a bright flower blossoming in the heart of Paris, Le Narcisse Blanc is a contemporary pleasure dome where guests can breathe the magic of the French capital.
Situated between the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, this 5-star hotel and spa casts an incredible view to the Seine and the most majestic Parisian buildings from its bohemian terraces. Le Narcisse Blanc offers the proper Art de Vivre feeling through its cozy sitting rooms, luxurious spa with swimming pool, hydrotherapy massage jets and sauna and last but not least its 37 spacious bedrooms and suites in silky champagne tones.
Designed in luxurious and refreshing taste by "Laurent & Laurence", the hotel creates a perfect balance between Art Nouveau and Art Deco that are fused with contemporary elements, serving as an homage to the perfect Parisian lifestyle. Because, in the words of Victor Hugo “Respirez Paris, preserve l’âme”.
Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
“Come, gentle Spring, ethereal Mildness, come, And from the bosom of you dropping cloud, While music wakes around, veiled in a shower of shadowing roses, on our plains descend”.
James Thomson poem Spring from his The Seasons printed on the show’s invitation resonated in the enchanting space of the Orangerie du Sénat as the models walked in.
Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen Men’s 2018 started slowly to unveil itself, telling a story gracefully balanced, like the gradual passing time of melting snow and moving clouds as the mild warmth of Spring approaches overcoming the cold Winter.
If the first looks presented sleek tailoring, leather outwear in black, off-white or crimson red - three colours running throughout is the whole collection – and a spectacular leather perfecto with matching pants adorned by a constellation of zip, buckles and studs, they are the last looks to steal the scene.
As a white leather cape embroidered with Rudyard Kipling’s “The Explorer” excerpt walks in, we feel the storm, the storm that precede any changing of the season, the sea storm of discovering journeys.
Sarah Burton continues the delicate island folktale for Alexander McQueen from her Women’s Fall collection.
Loose threads in red and blue wool adorns coats and suits in off-white, black and denim recalling the wishing tree. Maps scribbles and ancient poems are embroidered over the collection throughout. The closing looks, with a tree of life embroidered in crystals on a black suit and coat deliver the final emotional blow to this moving and ethereal collection.
“While softer gales succeed, at whose kind touch, dissolving snows in livid torrents lost, The mountains lift their green heads to the sky”.
Junya Watanabe Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
Junya Watanabe’s aesthetic has always been played around the notion of classic menswear.
With his specific model casting and strong vision., also this season the Japanese designer collaborated with Carhartt, Levi’s, Karrimor and The North Face delivering garments played around the notion of heavy-duty clothing.
The jackets featuring the latter's backpack embedded at the back and cut-up all over with The North Face elements confirmed the subtle genius of this legendary designer.
There were beautiful oversized denim, Jackets that pointed at authenticity rather than a fashion exercise.
Junya Watanabe created a youthful collection but shown once again with grownup next-door-guy and often bearded models, outside of the usual male casting. His “legit way to wear workwear” as the show note mentioned.
Or we could say, his poetic ode to the “real” and to the “ordinary” versus this over-constructed fashion system
It’s a vision Junya Watanabe has been building since a while now and the beautiful collection displayed pieces that will easily find their way to the wardrobe of many
Lanvin Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
Workwear versus tailoring. Literally. Lucas Ossendrijver's virtuoso for Lanvin Men's Spring Summer 2018 exploded in a spectacular intricate composition where a dualism of silhouettes and materials merged as the model stormed in a situationist walk.
The factory worker jumpsuits, the tailored pants, the tech sporty anorak but in a checked classic English fabric, beautiful asymmetric knitwear and a strong vision that has graced Lanvin Menswear for more than 10 years.
The multitude of elements in this collection it’s as overwhelming as carefully balanced.
Reworked coats graced with graphic motives or with contrasting neon lining sometimes made into a reversible look. Trousers constructed with double sides where checked classic fabric at the front is mixed with a tech sporty finish at his back beautifully seamed together with a visible stitch. The check again – as in last Fall Winter collection – is one of the protagonists.
It’s a fascination for the classic menswear codes and its challenge to enrich it and enhance it with new elements and unexpected mix matching.
That play of the unexpected that Lucas Ossendrijver's delivers also in the accessory collection for Lanvin for Spring Summer 2018. A retro vintage camera leather pocket case, a massive squared bag as out of a messenger bike utility case with an engraved “L”, a necklace made out of an hand-hammered sculpture in metal covered with leather representing an incredibly detailed hand almost as out of an anatomical specimen collection.
It is an incredible collection of several influences, ideas, many genres, whispering one message: be yourself no matter what.
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
A nomadic traveller. A wanderlust of island-hopping. Scuba zips, Aloha shirts in contrast with relaxed tailoring and fluid outwear as the modern trekking expert would oblige.
Kim Jones delivers a fresh and relaxed collection where sportswear and suiting play a dual identity game in an archipelago of declinations.
Fabrics as lightweight as modern. A paper-thin lambskin leather bonded with neoprene scuba parka floating in the heat-wave of the Palais Royal’s Jardin on the notes of the exclusive soundtrack composed by Drake for the collection.
As the new colours of the signature Monogram are introduced in the shade of blue: Pacific, a cobalt shade of blue, and Reflect, with its reflective finish is naturally recalling high-impact sport.
The sportswear theme is crucial in Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2018. Kim Jones plays with these elements in terms of colours, texture, and shapes. It is a playful and relaxed spirit pervading the entire collection – the Hawaii inspired floral patterns on silk organza for a short sleeved shirt layered on top of a tee with a matching print, intarsia knits of exotic foliage. The island as inspiration but also as state of mind.
The island as inspiration but also as state of mind.
Earth colours contrasting neon shades, the discovering of nature and the adventure of pushing the limits. The clogs sandals mixed with hiking boots bring a further staple items in Louis Vuitton fresh and sophisticated collection
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Japanese style is synonymous with clean lines and simple silhouettes, tailoring does the talking and superfluous intricacies are omitted for the sake of refinement. This clearly hit a nerve with Mr. Armani who, for his Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection, looks to establish a dialogue between East and West that shuns the cliché of Japanesque folklore-based collections.
Elegant tuxedos and martial arts-inspired Kimonos walked the runway alongside urban and sleek suits that were Armani through and through, upholding years of tradition.
The Far East may have served as Mr. Armani’s main inspiration this season but it was incorporated in the pieces in a way that was far from ostentatious. Elements of Japanese iconography were discreetly present on sporty boxy jackets and parkas that were in turn layered on ankle-length culottes or breezy silk cargo pants.
Armani’s trademark colour, dark blue, helped tie the collection together, grounding it in modernity and rendering it classically elegant and simultaneously modern and inspired. To contrast the darkness flashes of lacquer red were added to the mix while silk, the collection’s main fabric appeared in floral jacquard, printed with cherry blossoms or graffiti and abstract calligraphic prints.
Familiar and Armani, yes. Ordinary, not so much.
Etro Spring/Summer 2018
Etro’s Spring Summer 2018 Menswear collection pays homage to the spiritual wanderers of the psychedelic generation who inspire Kean Etro’s vividly colourful journey. Hints of Indian mysticism and talismans manifest themselves along with sacred cows, elephants, tantric couples and Tarot figures within quintessentially Etro paisley patterns.
Fabrics were inspired by Kean Etro’s grandfather as he worked tirelessly to recreate their unique DNA in his Italian atelier. Colours are worked into dyes that preserve the essence of the collection’s spirit with coral, tangerine, turquoise and fuchsia working both together and in contrast with earthy browns, military greens and bronze.
Linen is a permanent fixture for Etro’s Spring/Summer 2018 offering, affording the collection a casual yet tailored feel that’s so at home during the summer months. Lightweight, multi-coloured blazers with paisley prints and coloured Madras checks are all the rage while raw wool combinations ensure that the pieces remain light enough for the warmer months.
Ornamentation also plays an important role in the collection. Painted by hand in swirls of Etro’s favoured palette for the season or embroidered mandalas and floral motifs elevate the look of cargo jackets. This season’s trousers play with volume – ranging from slim cut tuxedo-style evening-wear version to linen Madras slacks for a more casual mood and ornately embroidered denim.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2018
True to form, Philipp Plein delivered yet another runway extravaganza for his latest men’s and women’s collection showcased at Milan Fashion Week. Revved-up engines, super cars, boy racers and tough girls comprised the mood of the tire-screeching spectacle accompanied by the sounds of Greased Lightning.
Frayed denim, studded leather jackets and sleeveless t-shirts for the rebels of a modern West Side Story were paired with chequered flag patches, flaming eight balls and ‘Glorious Bastards’ insignia while applique red flames adorn their jeans.
The ladies present a fresh twist on Grease’s queen bee persona, the inimitable Rizzo, as they hold their own in the leather bomber jackets and crop tops, leggings and bejewelled killer heels. Men and women stand their ground as equals, all members of a speed-obsessed squad that transcends gender stereotypes.
Hooded crocodile and leather biker jackets are decorated with airbrushed painting of Deat Proof hot rods, skulls and lightning bolts mirroring the designs emblazoned across the hoods of the pimped-out car zooming past.
Here, it’s the details that do the talking as every element counts in fine-tuning a look. Adrenaline-fuelled fashion for life in the fast lane where noise, power and speed conflate to give birth to something akin to a religion with ‘no guts, no glory’ as its mantra.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
That Friday feeling… it manifests itself mere moments before you leave the office, ready for the weekend adventures of your choice. Almost tangible, it is infused with an air of optimism, relaxation and regrouping no matter the season. Come the summer months, however, and that fleeting moment of utter freedom is accentuated further by longer, sunnier, brighter days and a generally elevated mood.
If that sounds all too familiar, then you’re totally grasping the inspirational context behind Fendi’s Spring Summer 2018 Men’s collection that walked the runway on Monday as part of Milan’s Fashion Week Schedule. This is executive realness on the verge of the weekend. Corporate aplomb walking hand-in-hand with sunny holiday daydreams. In a naturally subdued palette of beiges, sand, greens and flutters of that all-important pink, Fendi’s latest offering focuses around formalwear so versatile that stands its ground from boardroom to pool bar: suits and big blousons are worn with sleeveless shirts while shorts and tracksuits find their perfect matches in silk shirts. Slingback loafers are paired with running socks and neckties complete even the most laid-back looks.
This season sees the advent of what the brand has coined ‘The Skype look’: a playful mismatch of sartorial options that somehow work together while concealed behind the office desk: tops and bottoms clash beautifully and interestingly enough, so do the fronts and backs of many pieces. All notions that adhere to that mood-flipping feeling that rolls around when you’re about to clock out.
This is corporate escapism, the Fendi way!
Amsterdam Trail: A Unique Art Route
From the 5th to the 7th of May 2017, the sixth edition of The Amsterdam Trail and its unique approach to art are coming to the Dutch capital. The trail combines ethnography with contemporary arts and this year’s edition will concentrate around the Spiegelgracht, Amstelveld and Jordaan areas. Unexpected combinations that explore time and origin arise as artworks dating back to 3000BC, Egyptian mummies and contemporary videos are visited.
Jaap Wagemaker’s artworks will be shown at the Borzo Gallery in conjunction with objects from Oceania inspired by his original ethnographic collection.
Gallery Lemaire will host an installation from artist Jan Hoek in which ‘The Pattaya Sex Bubble’, central image of the piece, is surrounded by images from Africa, Indonesia and New Guinea. Additionally sculptures, jewellery, images and even chairs designed by Wieki Somers who drew inspiration by the austere furniture still in use in China, will be shown.
As the lines between ethnography and contemporary art seem to fade into each other we are left to wonder what constitutes contemporary art and what is ethnography. Take Izaak Zwaartjes’ artworks that is very close to a fetish mask from Mali and will be exhibited at the Upstream Gallery.
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2017
Fluffy fur - fake fur - in a deep shade of lilac, literally covering the sits, walls, columns and the grand stairways of the spectacular concrete architecture of Palais d’Ièna designed by pioneer Auguste Perret for the Exposition Universelle held in 1937.
Miuccia Prada is not new to strong statements during dark times like the current political atmosphere. And she does it in the most dramatic and fun way we have known her for. For Fall Winter 2017 Miu Miu’s girl is covered with fake fur of all the possible sorbet colours: lemon, papaya, green apple, vanilla, tangerine. Mix-matched with sultry embellished silk gowns in soft powder pink and multicolour sporty striped knitwear.
A powerful woman who is not afraid to show off her girly femininity. Miuccia Prada knows how to energize a tired crowd at the end of an intense fashion week calendar. It was all about that: being positive, energetic, alive. Wrapping oversized fuzzy coats, at times embellished with bejewelled belts, but also matching furry caps, and obviously the spectacular portfolio of accessories to give the final blow. It’s pure glamour, a bit 40s, a bit 70s. It’s Miu Miu on the nth degree and we cannot but love it.
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2017
Describing Alexander McQueen Fall Winter 2017 as romantic and ethereal would certainly be an understatement.
Inspired by the fascinating tales of Celtic traditions like the Cloutie wells and the medieval tales of King Arthur, the collection recalls the beauty of the shores in Cornwall, its magic ancient rituals and enchanting stories.
Knit and washed leather dresses are pierced with trailing of coloured lacing in silk, resembling the tradition of fastening a strip of cloth on a tree as votive offering, the wishing tree.
This long and feminine silhouettes underlining the female body recall the English mediaeval soft dressing as found in 16th and 17th century art depicting the beautiful tragic stories of Lady of Shallot and Queen Guinevere.
Sarah Burton gives us a full vocabulary of spectacular fabrics, embroideries, finishes, enabling us to dream about the rich landscape of myths and cultures of Cornwall. It’s as we could see the wind blowing on its coast, the ribbons and the hypnotic vision of million of threads floating in name of life.
A tweed interlaced with bright coloured twisted yarns and chiffon stripes of fuchsia, crimson and green. The medieval-inspired needlework cross-stitching embroidered on the fluent dresses and finished with silk trailing threads, floating around as the body moves: wildlife, witches rituals, letters, and even the date of birth of Lee McQueen.
It is a touching collection, youthful and powerful. The last sequence of evening dresses in silk tulles with an overwhelming embroidery work, glass beads, stones, fringes, loose thread and the house favourite feathers, give the final emotional blow for this magic collection
Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017
Declinations of deconstructed silhouettes in shades of black. Pleated, wrapped, twisted. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017 celebrates the roots of the acclaimed Japanese master himself in all the aspects that have been constantly accompanying his vision.
Forty-four looks of pure architectural shapes, and virtuosic silhouettes in a crescendo of emotions. As Yamamoto once again recorded his own guitar playing for the show music, it’s almost as if we could see him, in his home, sitting down and casually strumming his acoustic guitar, in search for fragments of time, emotions, images. Singing about a woman, the archetype of the woman itself.
And it’s the search for the perfect balance of draping around the female body the protagonist of the collection. The gracious volumes protruding along the figure with bias cut, deconstructed, rigorously in black with hand-painted splash of purple and blue. Painting has always been a beautiful obsession for the Japanese designer and we know he would never refrain from expressing the refuse to use print patterns.
The collection synthesizes magnetically these feelings of attachments to identity and the exciting search for the new. Yohji Yamamoto showed once again the unconditional pure beauty of staying true to oneself.
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2017
Sweatshirts and tees wrapped around the head, mimicking early ritual ceremonies. Coats, skirts, sleeveless jackets layered and twisted over the body recalling sacred costumes.
Rick Owens for Fall Winter 2017 designed a collection channelling the need for a positive new beginning rooted in the idea of collectivity, of gathering together, of human kind in its social form. It had a sense of austerity, of deep hope for a better future. As the model walked in the dry space of Palais de Tokyo, one following the other and randomly walking around the space it felt as a vortex of shapes, volumes and lengths was wrapping up the audience.
Deconstructed silhouettes of puffa jackets, blasers together with leather dresses pulled down and worn as captured in the second of taking them off. There was a strong sense of moving on, of change and positive transformation for a designer who has been building his reign on shades of darkness. Rick Owens chose a colour palette recalling his early work: olive green, khaki, black, shades of brown. It was as if the designer was looking for the initiation moment. The rebirth, the celebration of a future soon to come.
Marina Abramovic - The Cleaners
Marina Abramovic, one of the most recognised artists of our time, has often utilised her body and the concept of presence as her primary artistic media. Her self-exposure as a means of artistic expression has garnered her criticism and praise in equal measure. Controversial as she may be, her work has earned her a place in the spotlight, a place that she continues to uphold to this day.
Abramovic's first major retrospective in Europe, entitled The Cleaner is being housed in Stockholm's Moderna Museet. It presents several of her best-known performances, including the Relation Works with German artist as well as former collaborator and partner, Ulay. The works take the form of live performances, films, installations and photographs dating back to the 70s and taking us all the way to the present day. Early paintings, and works on paper – some of them exhibited for the very first time – are also part of the exhibition.
A tumultuous childhood and an upbringing rife with religious and revolutionary undertones, shaped the Belgrade-born artist's worldview and played a pivotal, highly influential role in her career. Her work seeks to decipher and explore complex concepts such loss, memory, being and pain. Abramovic doesn't shy away from existential questions and interprets them in ways that may both provoke and move her audiences, delving deep into both the physical and the mental pain threshold in her own unique way. In The Lovers (1988) Abramovic and Ulay undertook a 90-day walk from opposite ends of the Great Wall of China. Their halfway meeting marked the end of their love affair and more than ten-year partnership.
A selection of the artist's performance works will be re-performed in the exhibition by specially-trained performance artists who will lend their talents to works such as Cleaning the Mirror (1995) where one person carefully scrubs clean a human skeleton in a confrontation with morality, Freeing Series (1975) where voice, memory and body are set free, and Art Must Be Beatiful, Artists Must be Beautiful (1975) where the same phrase and actions are repeated obsessively, almost like an incantation.
A new work by Abramovic, in collaboration with Lynsey Peisinger will also be performed at the Moderna Museet's Eric Ericson Hall from the 27th of February to the 5th of March.
The exhibition will run from the 18th of February to the 21st of May 2017.
Philipp Plein Autumn/Winter 2017
Brooklyn-born rap and hip hop artist Nas, opened Phillip Plein's Autumn/Winter 2017 fashion show in the iconic New York Public Library. The show was a personal love letter to the city's neighbourhoods and the diversity that characterises them, highlighting their ability to shape and define an identity. From the Bronx and Chelsea to Queens and the Upper East side, every area has something to offer.
“Neighbourhood Kings” was emblazoned across the collections' garments – it does not matter where you come from, for Philipp Plein, you are the king of your own hood. A diverse cast of personalities and models – including rappers Desiigner and Fetty Wap - strutted down the runway as The Kills performed an electrifying live set.
Music, style, gender and race all had their say in this collection that did not distinguish between men's and womenswear: the girls wear boy's T-shirts and oversized hoodies while the boy's were styles in women's jackets and dresses. Streetwear and couture are also fused together: an embroidered evening dress was paired with a bomber jacket, there was an intarsia mink coat worn with a hoodie and thigh-high sneakers marched alongside heeled boots. Catering to self-expression and their own personal sense of style, the collection's strength lies in its bid to highlight individuality.
But Plein's ode to the Big Apple did end there: the prints also tell a tale of New York. Symbols from dollar pill comprise the print of a hooded fur coat, the Statue of Liberty and FBI (“Fashion Beyond Imagination” patches decorate sweaters and bombers. Floor-length puffer coats and snakeskin jackets are transformed into urban armour thanks to metallic details and the addition of studs.
Ermenegildo Zegna's Defining Moments
Every story worth being recounted begins with a defining moment. Ermenegildo Zegna's latest campaign focuses on just that: precious interactions, settings and conversations that trigger potentially life-changing reactions for its participants.
Robert De Niro, an actor known and revered the world over requires no introduction but it is safe to say he is no fashion ad regular. Alongside him, American Honey break-out star McCaul Lombardi whose performance generated Hollywood buzz at the end of last year. Actors of different generations, with wildly different experience levels but with an affinity that transcends age.
The campaign, shot by film-maker Francesco Carrozzi sees the actors interacting both with each other and the Zegna garments they have chose to wear and recalling their Defining Moments. De Niro's mentors, his philosophy of risk-taking and what draws him to a role are all put to the table. Lombardi appears genuinely awe-struck and profoundly respectful of his older, more experienced counterpart as he shares his experiences.
A free, real and passionate exchange that bridges a generational gap and lies at the heart of Ermenegildo Zegna's philosophy. A merging of the intensely artisanal and industrial elements that form the brand's DNA and expresses its values.
Christian Dada Fall/Winter 2017
“It was boundless blue, almost transparent. I stood up, and as I walked toward my own apartment, I thought, I want to become like this glass. And then I want to reflect this smooth white curving myself. I want to show other people these splendid curves reflected in me” The melancholic closing words of Ryu Murakami’s Almost transparent blue - one of the most striking Japanese contemporary novelists exploring the themes of youth and drug abuse - echoed in Masanori Morikawa’s new Fall Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dada.
Puffer jackets in aluminium silver as reminiscent of drug wrappers, Coca Cola-red sweatshirts with Heroin written in the same typography as the iconic American drink, sweaters in psychedelic orange and blue tones serving as glimpse of post-drug hallucinations.
Morikawa’s collection is imbued with duality - certainly the epitome of youth itself – and that uncertainty and struggle of reaffirmation of young individuals. We see relaxed men’s cut shirts that reveal an incredible heavy textile at the touch, deconstructed jackets that show the lining on the outside, lurex raw materials, all surprisingly soft to the touch.
The T-shirt and leather sweatshirts in collaboration with former English fashion designer and illustrator Charles Anastase, all point in the same direction.
Yet Morikawa presented a collection with a composite of Japanese nostalgia. Like the summer nights spent wearing Jinbei – but here transposed in leather and denim – or those high school times – with the tartan motifs from school uniforms juxtaposed here with urban silhouettes. Christian Dada is beautifully grown up and we are looking forward to seeing the evolution of the brand.
The adventurous gentlemen of BOSS Fall/Winter 2017
Gentlemen who voyage across the world without ever losing their style, inspired Hugo Boss for its latest collection, dedicated to those ready to take on the world.
Adventurers and explorers’ outfits that combine performance and functionality with Boss’ key foundations: precise cuts and construction. The modern traveller wardrobe will be composed of wider 80s silhouettes mixed with slimmer, modern cuts and long and short designs. Love for details is never forgotten by the brand that for this collection added a touch of maritime influence in pea coats and duffels secured with buckled straps and chunky fastenings in the style of nautical equipment.
Fabric research is just an added value to a proposal that puts quality first. Boiled wool, bonded leather and cotton to provide protection and create incredibly à la mode oversized shapes. Fisherman-style knitwear is crafted in chunky constructions and zipped closed with ring pulls to be functional and masculine at the same time. The color palette varies from off-white to burgundy and olive green passing through navy shades.
Modern travellers can sleep soundly: their luggage will always be fashionable.
SANKUANZ Fall/winter 2017: the chemistry collection
Standing for the reversal of an established system and breaking away from political correctness, that is what epitomises the Sankuanz Fall/Winter 2017 collection that explores space and chemistry.
Designer Shangguan Zhe's latest collection holds man's relationship with space and chemistry at its core, proposing garments that overlap with the idea of consuetude. Military uniforms with raw edges, primitive top-stitched suits and parkas, jumpsuits with industrial strap and bio-chemical protections, just a few examples of Zhe's research-based project. Zhe, indeed, created his own textiles mixing industrial materials and aramid fibers, usually used for spacesuits to give birth to his undoubtedly contemporary and updated vision.
Silhouettes are completed with accessories like visored bucket hats, pop military backpacks and high-top sock sneakers in a color palette that is everything but boring.
Plein Sport Fall/Winter 2017
Sport and fitness are the latest addiction of modern society and that's a fact. It's not all about keeping fit anymore, it's a lifestyle. Designers have also caught the athleisure bug and among them is Phillip Plein who delivered a Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to sportswear during this year's Milan Fashion Week.
On a runway made over to resemble a racetrack, models, boxers and workout fanatics presented the first ever Plein Sport line. The collection features sweatshirts, puffer gilets and bombers, among many other fitness apparel favourites, fusing cutting-edge technology with luxurious materials.
Innovation is Philipp Plein's mantra and a key word for his collection that also offered sleeve pockets for iPhones and pioneered lightweight footwear and anti-sweat fabrics.
Take a walk on the wild side with Christian Dada’s “Blue” collection
In the name of “Blue”, Christian Dada's latest collection is a hymn to Japanese color traditions. Blue evokes feelings of rebellion, frustration, incomprehension that surround troubled youth.
Reaching out to our inner adolescent, the collection revolves around the concept of deconstruction that is obtained with sophisticated methods of shaping and layering. Mixing Eastern and Dadaist aesthetics, designer Masanori Morikawa plays with classic tailored jackets worn like kimonos wrapped around T-shirts and striped pajamas. Trench coats morph into tunics and army bombers and denim jackets are ripped into and skinned to expose their bone structure.
Tartan motifs and schoolboy sheepskin jackets collectively pay homage to College fashion. With slogans like “I Don't Like Drugs but Drugs Like Me” or “Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die” making appearances throughout the line, Morikawa's collection echoes messages from modern society.
Playing with double entendres is a trademark of the Dadaist mood board that definitely urges one to take a walk on the wild side.
Out Of The Blue comes Peuterey
Peuterey wraps its timeless designs into the most diverse shades of blue for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
In Out of the Blue, a name that perfectly encapsulates the collection's essence, Italian elegance meets functionality, conceiving a wide range of models that suit our everyday life perfectly, just like their key-color does.
Whether it's trench coats, leatherjackets or blazers – creative director Federico Curradi, has definitely set a new trend for this Spring/ Summer season.
Bottega Veneta and SCoP: when fashion supports art
Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta’s creative director, has never hid his passion for art, making it a proper flagship of the Venetian brand’s attitude. Bottega Veneta showed for the first time its strong commitment to art and culture in 2001, when Maier introduced the “Art of Collaboration”: an ongoing project which invites photographers and visual artists in order to reflect brand’s aesthetic inside its campaigns.
This year the brand confirms its ever-lasting addiction to art, partnering with the Shanghai Centre of Photography in order to support four key international exhibitions hold at the most prestigious photography institute in China. SCoP is indeed considered worldwide the city’s very first place entirely dedicated to photography showcasing its best and diverse genres.
“Made in Germany: German photography from the 19th century to today” will be the first exhibition supported by Bottega Veneta. The projects will comprises an unparalleled selection of iconic masterpieces that together with contemporary examples will give an up-to-date and fresh touch to the entire exhibition.
The exhibition will run until April 2nd 2017
Louis Vuitton’s “Series 6”: between French theatricality and aesthetics
Paris with its romantic promenades sur la Seine it’s the star of “Series 6”, the new Spring/Summer 2017 advertising campaign by Louis Vuitton.
Like a flâneur, Bruce Weber, captured the allure of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite heroines bringing back to life the atmosphere of artistic enthusiasm that typify the city of lights. Michelle Williams, Jennifer Connelly, Adèle Exarchpoulos and Sasha Lane become the modern inspirations for a reimagined Paris. The result portrays powerful silhouettes that comprise a collection of strongly cultural referred Parisian moments. The season’s handbags, the long jersey dresses and the tailored suit become characters in their own right, the perfect companions for these pictorial personalities.
“It is to this cultivated, intellectual, original and free-spirited Parisienne that I wanted to pay tribute” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative epicenter of nowadays French elegance.
VERSACE Spring/Summer 2017: enjoy the ride
Savagery and freedom have always been messages carried by Versace that since its birth thanks to its innovative ways of conceiving fashion has endlessly imposed its creative dynamism among the highest fashion brands.
From attitudes to backgrounds, the Spring/Summer 2017 campaign shot by Bruce Weber is the proper representation of what Versace has always meant in the haute couture. Conceived by artistic director Donatella Versace, the freedom and dynamism of summer and the active mood are perfectly encapsulated in these shoots. Models Edie Campbell, Anna Ewers, Mitchell Slaggert and Jake Lahrman, found themselves in the Kentucky countryside surrounded by horses, perfect symbols of this “freedom” collection.
Freedom of choice, freedom of expression and freedom of speech, These are the messages carried by this collection and Versace in general, because as Bruce Weber said: “it’s always interesting that fashion can carry messages in a subtle way and make people think about their own lives and how they can make it better.”
Acne Studios Resort 2017 collection’s film is now out, and it’s all about Hype Fever
Highlighted shades, slow motion pictures and pop vibes merge together to give birth to the new Resort 2017 collections film by Acne Studios.
Inspired by musical counter culture, free and fluid silhouettes mixed and matched with generous draping, patterned knitwear and elongated evening wear. Sneak peeks from the runway are given together with backstage scenes to present a collection that is nothing but common.
Resort 2017 is all about shapes and prints that are achieved through a variety of dyeing techniques from tie-dyeing to oil-dyeing, in order to create a look that is both soft and romantic without ever forgetting a taste of sane hippie-rock attitude.
Levi’s and JUGEND GEGEN AIDS: T-shirts with a good cause
On world’s AIDS day Levi’s decided not to stay in the corner, taking part together with the JUGEND GEGEN AIDS association to a special night that merged fashion, music and sexual education.
In order to make a difference and let young people feel close to the cause, the denim brand organized the “Night of Life” in association with DJs and starred chefs in order to turn a pool party at the Hamburg East Hotel into something unforgettable.
The ‘STOP AIDS’ sign was shown on black and white limited edition Levi’s T-shirts during the party, whose proceeds will go to the benefit association JGA that since years fight to create awareness around AIDS.
“Do what you want. Do it with love, respect and condoms”
PITCH FESTIVAL 2016
The fifth edition of Pitch Festival will kick off this weekend at Cultuurpark Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam. The impressive line-up is suggesting it will be a fun two-days. Featured in our #50 issue, Canadian singer Grimes will be performing, as well as William Phillips, a.k.a. Tourist, alongside many more. For those not familiar, Tourist is an electronic musician and is co-writer of Grammy-winning Song of 2015 Stay with Me by Sam Smith.
To get a feeling of what PITCH is like, watch last year’s impression on our Facebook. Weekend and day tickets are available on www.pitchfestival.nl
Loewe Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
A sea of Mimosa flowers. This tiny yellow common Mediterranean flower welcomed us in the HQ of Loewe in Paris.
Stripes – multicoloured or bitonal – fresh cotton, canvas with the signature’s leather details. Loewe Menswear Spring Summer 2018 it has all that summery allure of Spanish Riviera.
Sometimes you would see “Loewe Beach Club” or “Summer Love Loewe” on tees, maxi totes with nautical references in cord or raffia.
Jonathan Anderson choose Salvador Dalì’s hose in Catalonia as place for the seasonal lookbook shooting, the surrealist and playful atmosphere.
It's a fresh and youthful collection with a relaxed feeling compared to the previous season but keeping Anderson's signature: the little objets trouvé as key chain and charms, tapestry details, the anchor motif and spectacular details.
As Loewe Menswear collection is evolving season after season finding its audience, its market and vision, we keep seeing that exquisite naiveté and a nostalgic sense of memoire retrieving that Anderson has been working on for a while now.
Sacai Spring Summer Menswear & Women's Pre-Spring 2018
Chitose Abe's new collection for Sacai is a tribute to the duality of genders, the investigation in terms of Men/Women clothing. This season the show was featuring men’s Spring Summer together with Pre-Spring Womenswear.
As the models walked in squads, there was a strong sense of group, of subtle genderless interpretations.
Like the beautiful Menswear checked looks entering the spectacular venue of Cité de la Musique together with their female counterparts. Oversized sporty for him, layered - at a time short - dress for her.
Abe's playing with different elements between the formal and the sporty, the sculptural and the sleek almost in an ode to freedom at its core.
There was a lot of that deconstructed and cut-ups from Abe’s DNA. But also a new streetwear simplicity declined for both sexes.
Oversized, sculptural jackets with fringes hinting to Western Americana with sculptural bell sleeves for her or a sporty silhouette for him.
The beautiful declinations of checked looks, a signature pattern for Sacai’s vision, were the most outstanding in terms of layering and transparencies play.
The collaboration with pioneer conceptual artist Lawrence Weiner and his typographic artwork was another take in terms of that freedom of expression Chitose Abe reaffirmed looks after look.
“STATIS AS ON VECTOR ALL IN DUE COURSE”, featured almost as graphical pattern on full looks in black over white and vice versa felt minimal but once again provocative.
Dries Van Noten Spring Summer 2018 Menswear
The fluidity of a soft blazer, a silk kimono wrapped over relaxed pants and a shirt. A confident look without being loud. A soft toned collection, with a hint to workwear and a beautiful relaxed tailoring.
This is Dries Van Noten at his core, the Dries Van Noten who voices the darkness of life and doesn't feel the urgency to talk always in bright coloured notes. The Dries van Noten from the early years.
It is always extremely overwhelming to experience a show of this celebrated master. The integrity and the strength of his poetic vision. For this season the show was held in the historical offices of the iconic left wing French newspaper Liberation.
As we climbed up to the venue at the top floors of the 8-storey building from its parking ramps, we were gradually feeling this atmosphere, the weight of history, of knowledge and of thoughts.
Mustard, khaki, or zabaione as the show notes pointed out, the colour palette led to an elegant but youthful menswear collection true to the brand's signature.
Shorts with linen boxy shirts, oversized and slouchy sky blue blazer paired with a shirt in cerulean shade and classic pants, belted trench coats.
It’s that relaxed attitude in Menswear that several designers have been embarking on lately, that cool oversized look that Dries van Noten has created 25 years ago.
Wood Wood Spring/Summer 2018
Wood Wood takes a trip to the Italian province of Campania for its Spring Summer 2018 collection. The Italian coastlines have provided many a designer with tons of inspiration in the past and continue to do so regularly: steep mountains rise from the Tyrrhenian Sea and rugged sceneries intermingle with country landscapes giving birth to this season’s colour palette.
While journeying through the picturesque island of Capri the designers were greeted by the incomparable carefree and comfortable way of local life. It wasn’t long before they were infatuated; could it have been the food, the wine or the late night dinners? It could have well been all of the above, elements that compose that general feeling of Mondanità that we so lack nowadays.
Vintage signs and powerful quotes from noted Italians such as Federico Fellini and Ettore Sottsass, manifest themselves in the print stories and graphics of the Spring Sumer 2018 collection that harken back to Anthony Minghella’s “The Talented Mr. Ripley”.
For Wood Wood’s Mondano collection, Italian stlye and bright colours intermingle, creating a fresh and optimistic offering that stays loyal to the brand’s attitude. Streetwear is mixed with contemporary detailing and performance styling. Formal suiting is blended with contemporary sports and streetwear codes in a bright and optimistic colour palette dominated by bright reds, yellos, deep green, orange and grounded by the addition of beige and brown.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2018
An air of positivity and optimism breezes through Paul Smith’s bright Spring/Summer 2018 collection for men and women. Inspired by Paul’s early visits to 70’s New York where he would source Hawaiian shirts from SoHo and his signature floral prints that these inspired later, this was a collection that professed its love to summertime.
Floral and aquatic motifs formed the core of the adornments for this season seen embroidered on tuxedo lapels or hand-painted on leather and appliqued onto tote bags. Technical outerwear developed with performance-wear in mind also play host to the marine print bringing modernity and functionality to the fore. Elsewhere a midnight beach scene on landscape jacquard appear on a bomber jacket for men and is reinterpreted in a blazer for women.
Patch-worked floral print dresses play with louche summer shirt collar shapes and Japanese carp dive across silk georgette slips. Patterned lining take on new life on a brushed cotton two-piece suit for women where tropical flowers are revere printed, giving the impression of sun-bleached fabric.
The tailored shapes for men and women are a nod to Paul Smith archive pieces from the 80’s given new life in a colour palette that spans from the soft pastel hues of cornflower blue and dusty pinks and takes us all the way to midnight tones and French navy, culminating in a crescendo of striking yellows and hot turquoise.
Plein Sport Spring/Summer 2018
This season the vision for Plein Sport was a futuristic gladiatorial combat, in a world where survival of the fittest becomes a way of life. As pole dancers perform on stage, fighting cages are lowered into the arena and twenty pro wrestlers and boxers set the tone for what’s sure to be a fashion show that has Plein written all over it. Both literally and metaphorically.
As Plein Sport warriors take to the runway, one thing becomes apparent, functionality is of the utmost importance: sweatshirts, hoodies, leggings and vests are produced with technical, intelligent fabrics for a line that strives to be perceived as an innovative performance kit rather than a series of fashion statements in leisure wear.
Pieces are designed to move with the body, accompanying its every step with stretch materials and netting that stand the test of intense exercise and high temperatures whether you’re on the streets, the ski slopes of the treadmill of your gym. Motivational mantras complete the garments, emblazoned across sear pants while metallic fabrics pay tribute to the silver masks of El Santo, Mexico’s iconic wrestling hero.
Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger… Plein Sport shows no signs of slowing down just like a determined, disciplined athlete hungry for the win.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Summer 2018
For his debut Summer collection, Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori embarks upon an exploration of fantasies both conscious and sub-conscious while clashing innocence and sensual masculinity. In a futuristic garden outfitted with tangerine lawns in the historic courtyards of Milan’s Universita Statale, outdoor life crossed paths with the indoors for a collection permeated with fluid fabrics and delicate silhouettes uplifted by colors.
Sartori’s interplay of proportions sees classic shirts replaced by deconstructed tops in various volumes, double tank tops and scoop neck sweaters that play with active yet tailored trousers and joggers. The sporty allure of the collection is further enriched by oversized handmade pockets, hoods and the iconic Triple Stitch logos.
The collection appears almost weightless with the inclusion of fluid washed silks, Century Cashmere and pure mohair while giro inglese and mesh jacquards along with perforated and intarsia leather give hints of an ethereal substance.
Delicate and naturally-inclined the color palette features shades of walnut, deep cypress green and bleached aqua and optical white is afforded some much-welcomed color flashes.
This season’s offering remains quintessentially Zegna but looks to the future nonetheless. It’s a fresh take on the fashionable man’s wardrobe that allows for personality and individual style to seep through while remaining routed in Ermenegildo Zegna’s timeless allure.
COS is going back to where it all started by re-opening its Kurfürstendamm store in Berlin. Back in 2007, the Kurfürstendamm store was the first COS store to open on the German market and has since then evolved into eighteen stores.
This time, the Kurfürstendamm store is set over two stories and 625sqm, offering the full collection across COS womenswear, menswear and children's wear. COS wanted to create a dynamic yet timeless space and has therefore preserved the building’s original architectural features while mixing it up with modern updates. The stores interior goes in line with the brand aesthetic by combining functionality and design, creating a contrast interior of blonde wood against concrete and marble.
A brand’s advertising campaign has a very specific aim in mind –as a carefully crafted fusion of the brand’s core values and signature visual codes, this collection of references is meant to encapsulate and appeal to its archetypal customer.
As the age-old moniker attests, less is (usually) more. Adhering to long-standing traditions and stripping down to a the bare essentials may just be the key ingredients for a campaign in which the ideal customer is present at both ends of the process; they are simultaneously an inspiration and the receiver of the end product. In an age where endless attempts of innovation and out-of-the-box thinking are swarming our daily lives, a back to basics approach comes as a breath of fresh mountain air.
Enter Woolrich’s latest campaign – UTAH: a campaign that focuses and is built around characters residing in Eden, Utah. Located north of Salt Lake City and nestled in a lush valley between Snowbasin and Powder Mountain, Eden seems to exert an irresistible force that pulls lovers of the great outdoors towards it effortlessly, inviting them to partake in the vast array of activities it offers.
The campaign aims to embody the effortless equilibrium that characterises the daily lives of Eden’s residents who are all infatuated with the great outdoors in ways totally personal to each and every one of them. The importance of people and space, the balance between work and home life, the melding of style and exploration all became focal points. For Woolrich, this is about much more than stopping and smelling the roses, it’s about pausing on a long walk to hear stream, feeling the wind on your skin, watching the trees grow and basking in vibrant sunsets. Simply put, this is a celebration of nature’s simultaneously calm and invigorating energy and the endless possibilities it opens up to anyone eager to listen.
Woolrich has been at the forefront of outdoor lifestyle innovation for more than 180 years but its roots can be traced back to tradition and the oldest, continuously operating woollen mill in the US. The Woolrich Mill provided wool blankets to civil war soldiers and continues to produce them to this day. Since then, the brand has been consistent in delivering outdoors-oriented products since the 70s when people began to engage with nature in new and exciting ways. Men and women took their free time to explore natures splendour in a more recreational setting with backpacking, camping, mountaineering and cycling being just a few of their preferred activities.
From simple wool socks to its famous cold-busting parkas, the brand’s products embrace and highlight the authenticity of the outdoor lifestyle. Functionality, comfort and durability are key characteristics of Woolrich’s offerings for both men and women that are further elevated by quality materials such as wool, cotton and down. Completely in-tune with the needs of its customers, the outdoor brand now incorporates technical performance fibres like nylon and polyester in all its garments.
For Woolrich, there’s a simple constant: as long as there are people keen to venture into the wild, it will help them do so in comfort and style.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2017
The magic sets of Chanel Ready-to-Wear shows are always expected with anticipation and this season Karl Lagerfeld confirmed once again to be a visionary. A giant 35-meters-high rocket ship was waiting for us at the centre of the Grand Palais, envisioning the recent NASA news of potentially earth-size and consequentially habitable-zone planets.
It does not surprise that the humongous double C rocket was designed to lift off for more than 10 meters in the finale, leaving us completely stunned in smoke and pyrotechnic lights with Elton John’s Rocket Man in the background, Lagerfeld playfully used a whole vocabulary of space references: metallic matelassé stoles in silver and pink as space blankets, knitted headbands lifting the hair into a voluminous round cloud hinting to the space suit helmet, heavenly beaded black evening dresses to match the stardust castellated sky.
The classic Chanel skirt suits is also reinvented with matching shorts and completed with sequined tights and half gloves. It’s a fantasy as out of the best interstellar tale, and we hypnotically want to be part of it. Sparkling signature tweed in metallic silver, white electric blue and Karl’s favourite powder pink, together with the most glittery lunar boots would provide the perfect mise for our final space mission to escape this tired Mother Earth.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2017
“How enduring, how we need durability / The sky before sunrise is soaked with light / Rosy colour tints buildings, bridges, and the Seine” Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose Nobel Prize Czes?aw Mi?osz as backdrop for her collection. More than an homage to her ancestors, it’s the sense of surprise and anticipation every non-Parisian feels when experiencing this city that Vanhee-Cybulski aimed to hint. It’s that wandering around as in a sort of situationist walk, not sure what will resurface from its powerful heritage. The expectation and the excitement.
Hermés Fall/Winter 2017 is all that. Vanhee-Cybulski’s wish to build Hermés identity as timeless but playful, a dialogue between the contemporary fresh attitude with that effortless spirit expressed since her first collection at the French house, was clear from the start. The collection felt polyhedric and at a closer look it revealed all its beautiful craftsmanship.
A beautifully timeless wool long cape in midnight blue lined in a rosy dusty brick tone and paired with a sporty ribbed sweater and tights. A sweeping floor leather coat in pale powder pink. Classic cut pants and laced-up thigh-high boots as borrowed from man’s wardrobe. Relaxed turtleneck knits matched with statement patchwork leather outwear with shearling trim. But also 70s vibes with scarf dresses in mousseline. Vanhee-Cybulski is revising the codes of haute modern dressing for this equestrian-routed French maison.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017
When everyone is playing urban street-wear, Jonny Johansson used a romantic and soft approach for his Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017.
The creative director is transforming the Scandinavian brand known for years as a denim forward label with a minimalist approach. For a while now we have seen Acne Studios feeding a new direction, a new light in terms of the brand’s identity increasingly far from the street. Acne Fall Winter 2017 is a spontaneous and playful collection with a strong sense of individuality and easiness.
Soft oversized mohair knits with polka dots, gently alluding to a sense of naiveté. Floral prints combined on a big selection of fabrics, from cotton to silk plissé. Long coats, in beautiful classic textiles, pin striped or checked, evolving into tunic-like dresses turned back-to front.
Johansson plays with the notion of tailoring almost as an ironic gesture, to vouch for the idea of an uncomplicated way of living, a different way of feeling the notion of femininity itself.
The designer’s love for accessory research once again was expressed with the beautiful statement jewellery in metal and enamel, together with the large oversized bags with wide straps and graphic knots. The asymmetric shades matching the floral deconstructed dresses and creating a further contrast to the soft organic feel of the whole collection gave the perfect youthful accent. We see a confident woman, she is intuitive and optimistic. No matter what.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Imagine a tribe of legendary models from the 90s, with their ageless beauty, power walk and barely-there makeup. Imagine them now walking for the most loved and respected fashion designer of our time for his 100th show.
Dries van Noten surprised everyone when the show started: all the models who walked for him, from the very beginning, were all present: Amber Valletta, Caroline de Maigret, Malgosia Bela, Kirsten Owen, Trish Goff, Kim Noorda, Guinevere Van Seenus and legendary Kristina de Coninck opening the show. Together with the more recent favourites. It was an overwhelming flow of emotions for whomever has followed and worked with this acclaimed Belgian designer since 1993.
The collection was a parade of all the prints, the cuts, the colours from past collections, the story of Dries van Noten in toto. It was an incredible archive research, as some of the print designs didn’t exist anymore. The strong sentiment of timeless style and ageless beauty was pervasive, look after look. The oversized coat, the relaxed long dresses, the denim, velvet, and beautiful fur stoles. The mix-matched colours with a lemon yellow splashing the entire collection. It was a celebration of joy, of positivity, of the essence of femininity itself.
The sound of a crowded street, the cars, the people, a dog barking accompanied the vastitude of a collection of music and movies extracts played: from Jun Miyake’s Lilies of The Valley - the musician who closely worked together with Pina Bausch, one of Dries Van Noten's dearest muses – to the late David Bowie singing Heroes in the a cappella finale. “…you, you can be mean. And I , I’ll drink all the time. Because we are lovers. That is a fact”
Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-18 The Alchemist's Garden
An air of magical curiosity filled the air as Alessandro Michele's Fall/Winter 2017 Gucci collection was presented at Milan Fashion Week. Complete with streetwear elements, fused with historical costumes and oversized floppy hat featured alongside vest tops with anarchic messaging, the collection was vibrant, exciting and oh-so Gucci.
There's a garden of plants and animals. Inhabited by signs, symbols and archetypes invoking and recalling remote worlds, blending the conscious with the unconscious as imagination forces the inertia of reality. This alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory that refutes rigidity and determinism, aiming instead to recover the complexity of existence with the contradictions that permeate it.
This ubiquitous cycle is perfectly embodied in the Ouroboros, an ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating up its own tail. It destroys and conceives in a never ending cycle of self renewal and reflects Alessandro Michele's fascination with the role of fashion in modern society.
Make Love Not Walls
Through photographic material and a series of global actions, Diesels breaks down all barriers in communication with its #makelovenotwalls movement and tears down the mental and physical walls that separate us. In a time where hate, walls and fear seem to prevail, the brand urges us all to unite for the greater good.
“At Diesel we have a strong position against hate and more than ever we want the worlds to know that. Love and togetherness is crucial in creating a society we all want to live in, and the future we all deserve” explains Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti.
For this campaign, Formichetti collaborates with legendary artist and photographer David LaChapelle using the Wall as a symbol of separation and breaking it down to create strong stories through a simple yet powerful narrative: walls are built and the heart-shaped Diesel love tank tears them down. As a symbol of separation is reinterpreted into a symbol of unison and flowers fills the space, a celebration of freedom and love is born. Diesel is known for pushing the boundaries creatively.
From its 1995 LaChapelle campaign with two kissing sailors, to this year's anti-wall ads, it encourages us to let fear aside and focus on what brings us all together rather than what divides us. If You've got walls, Diesel's got wrecking balls!
Mode Suisse Edition 11
February 8th 2017 marked the showcase of Mode Suisse Edition 11 at the Migros Museum fur Gegenwartskunst in Zurich. Once again, a wealth of design talent was represented. Among them high-flying label Julia Seeman, Garnison's post-dandy menswear, LYN Lingerie's luxury handmande collection, Julian Zigerli's second appearance of womenswear and gender-fluid menswear that have made him a household name as well as Berlin-based experimentalist womenswear label studiowinkler. Additionally WUETHRICHFUERST made their much-anticipated debut.
The evening's highlights included the showcase of Masters' students Jeremy Gaillard, Flore Girard de Langlade and Vanessa Schindler, who is the winner of the Prix d'Excellene Hans Wildorf. Additonally Zurich favourites enSoie had the audience craving for its nonchalant style while Vivienne Rohner strutted the catwalk laid with previously unseen carpets by Schonstaub. Special guest designerDorothee Vogel's desirable duvet coats and floaty dresses ended the show.
Edition 12 of Mode Suisse will take place in Zurich in September 2017.
Paul Smith Menswear Fall/Winter 2017
Paul Smith is one of the few brands that gives you the feeling of security, of home and the certainty of effortless style.
With its timeless tailoring, the classic yet fun twistS in textiles and cuts, for his Fall/Winter 2017 Sir Paul Smith presented Menswear and Womenswear together. It was a storm of several declinations of what it could be Paul Smith now, and how any person, especially young, could sport it. Lush checked classic English fabrics, for men and women, silk dresses both in solid colours and printed with hundreds of feathers as taken from a XIX century treatise on naturalia.
Paul Smith with his masterly style showed us how we can wear a shearling short jacket over a suit. Or how a woman can sport a deep blue velvet suit and look so sexy. Coral, blue, green, khaki, grey: a colourful palette true to the brand’s signature identity. We particularly loved the relaxed blazer suits – womens’ were long, below the hips - and the coats over them, for him and her, a full dive into that Smith heritage of effortless elegance.
OFF WHITE Fall/Winter 2017
“The show is real” Virgil Abloh told us backstage after the show. Real and now, much like the urge to touch the everyday life of many in various forms. For OFF-WHITE Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection Abloh stood up for a new chapter of the brand. Oversized outwear gives way to tailored silhouettes. The extreme youthful approach is now moving into a more grownup vision.
The spectacular set design featuring real fading leaves and shedding trees inside the harsh concrete brutalist UNESCO building, wraps the collection in a surreal atmosphere. As we walk inside the venue we feel overwhelmed by this recreated landscape. It almost urges you to just take a stroll and roll in what looks like a wintery park’s forgotten route.
Checked coats with embroidered foliage, denim printed with flying doves and adorned with golden leaves by London based jeweller Duffy. Exquisite knitwear permeates the whole collection, both for men and women, featuring the brand’s signature bar logo. In all its wearability Seeing Things – as named by Abloh - is a romantic and ambitious collection yet staying true to OFF-WHITE’s identity rooted in the streets.
A new way of seeing, as resonating in the words of British writer John Berger’s Ways of Seeing, was chosen as the opening narration for the show: “The images has come to you, you don’t go to them. The days of pilgrimage are over. It is the image of the painting which travels now”.
NEW TENDENCY x Meiré und Meiré
New Tendency showed its 2017 product innovations at the Meiré und Meiré Factory.
The Bauhaus tradition has influenced the development process of everyday contemporary objects for New Tendency. Their furnishings serve to compose an ideal setting for modern working environments. With the emergence of co-working spaces, New Tendency have picked up on the need of flexible and functional configurations and strive to inspire those who are surrounded by their creations in their daily lives and their professional environments.
Showcasing their work in one of the leading creative agencies in Germany was therefore a natural progression.
Among other objects, New Tendency presented its December Edition at the Meiré und Meiré factory, a line that was the result of a fruitful collaboration with the agency, furthering their devotion to creative partnerships. The Artist's Edition of the lamp served as the inspirational springboard for the creation of New Tendency's premium line, Black Label that will soon be expanded to include more exclusive pieces with clear geometrical components.
Raw structures, industrial materials and natural elements formed the perfect hybrid framework for New Tendency's minimalist yet progressive designs. The presentation at the Meiré und Meiré factory didn't treat New Tendency's furnishings as conventional exhibits; they were instead integrated in the agency's daily goings-on serving as both a working space and a meeting point.
For New Tendency's exhibition at the Meiré und Meiré Factory, Mike Meire grouped the December edition pieces with side tables from the META line to create an island in the middle of the space. The installation was staged on raw concrete and stone slabs between dry plants, paint buckets and cardboard boxes. Fluorescent lights floated above it, different colours and textures of plastic foil sheets hanging over the top. The industrial ensemble was characterised by deliberately rudimentary fragmented elements that served as a beautiful contrast to the high-end claim of the products on display.
In the age of digitalisation, where products are becoming increasingly perfect Mike Meiré felt the need to infuse the products with textural and tactile elements proposing 'Brutalism x Redefining Nature' and paying tribute to Le Corbusier's New Brutalism.
Vivienne Westwood summer trip to the Mediterranean
The Mediterranean has always served as a source of inspiration for poets and artists. A symbol of eternal beauty, of endless summers. A beauty that many have attempted to explain with words but that is better left to feelings and emotions.
Andreas Kronthaler's Spring/Summer 2017 'Europa' collection for Vivienne Westwood is a case in point. The collection is an ode to the Mediterranean's laid-back summer vibes and evokes images of sandy beaches, sunsets by the sea and days spent in nothing more than a bikini. But much like everything that bear's Vivienne Westwood's signature, there's a political statement to be read between the lines: 'Europa' is a continent in crisis, struggling to come to grips with the humanitarian crisis of mass migration, an issue that stains its reputation but somehow doesn't distract from its charm.
Legendary photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in Greece, with the picturesque white houses and blue waters serving as the perfect backdrop. Showcasing the garments as well as the scenery beautifully, Teller also managed to highlight the Mediterranean's grotesque facade with a mixture of sophistication and grunge very synonymous with the Vivienne Westwood brand.
Former sex-symbol Pamela Anderson features in the campaign providing a contrast that also links to the power of Mother Nature. The result is simple and delicious, just like a plate of spaghetti.
BILLIONAIRE Fall/Winter 2017: Texas under spotlights
Once upon a time, soap opera characters served as primary sources of style inspiration and this season Billionnaire by Philipp Plein travelled back in time to pick up the trend. Remember Dallas?
Set in Texas, the show reached cult phenomenon status and was Philipp Plein's moodboard for Fall/Winter 2017. The Billionnaire man is a wealthy and stylish globetrotter: skiing in Aspen and gambling in Monte Carlo. The collection reflects the attitude of a character that isn't shy about showing off his personality.
Snakeskin jackets, chinchilla bombers and full-length overcoats feature alongside astrakhan and crocodile skins as the ultimate statements of elegance whether on the slopes or in the city. Trousers are high-waisted and denim takes centre stage in trousers and double-breasted jackets.
From knitwear to eveningwear the attention to detail is meticulous, fully conveying Plein's references: classic Texan hat included!
A dandy poem by Alexander McQueen
A dandy spirit that explores the deepest sides of Oscar Wilde's soul during an esoteric trip that Germans call Wanderlust. A contemporary gentleman traveling from London's Tite Street to Paris Saint Germain seeking inspiration from the world that surrounds him.
Alexander McQueen documents this journey through his latest menswear collection, paying homage to the man who has become synonymous with the term 'esthete'. British tailoring plays a central role in a collection that encapsulates and celebrates the house's trademark codes. Precise and elongated cuts in suits with peaked shoulders and legged or flare trouser silhouettes – worn cropped above the ankle and sometimes with a satin or velvet band on the sides, offer their elegance to coats and jackets alongside jacquards with peacock feathers for the most daring dandies. The collection also explores and plays with proportions, combining classic and more of-the-moment oversized fits to give birth to a new hybrid of men's shirt-dresses. A worn-in feel is brought forward by mohair knits, frayed at the edges and laddered with holes. For the evening, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2017 features tuxedos, smoking jackets and robes with satin quilted reveres, embroidered velvet and jacquard to give an incredible taste of elegance to a collection that is worth of an old-fashioned gentleman.
McQueen's latest collection is a true ode to Oscar Wilde, done in incomparable style and honing in on elements that have granted the brand the status it holds today. No doubt it will be at the receiving end of countless praises this season.
FENDI Spring/Summer 2017: it it girls in a pink pink world
Sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid are undoubtedly a winning model duo in this day and age. For Fendi's Spring/Summer 2017 campaign the Hadid siblings join forces with Italian model Vittoria Ceretti to bring the brand's latest collection to life.
Set in a Parisian apartment, Karl Lagerfeld created a pastel-coloured world with floral wallpapers, infusing a fresh, young campaign with a delicate touch. Bella, Gigi and Vittoria reflect the brand's proposed shabby chic aesthetic while paying homage to Fendi's DNA in an ultra feminine way.
Fendi's Peeakaboo, Dotcom and Strap You bags are given candy-coloured makeovers, further enhancing their status as must-have accessories for the summer season. Fun fur details transform these into the perfect companions for these contemporary Marie Antoinettes.
The intimate, romantic and magical atmosphere created is made current with the addition of an edgy, sporty twist. Classic, yet current and so very Fendi.
Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture moment has come
Schiaparelli Maison, Chanel's historical rival is definitely back on the scene after a long hiatus. This January marks a milestone for the celebrated maison as the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture decided to enlist Schiaparelli among the 15 fashion haute couture brands existing in the world.
Ravaged by the aftermath of the war, Elsa Schiaparelli closed her iconic Paris "Schiap Shop" in 1954, the very same year that saw the release of her autobiography "Shocking Life". It was only three years ago that Italian businessman Diego Della Valle decided to revive Schiaparelli, believing in the power of its indomitable style and unparalleled innovative techniques.
Alongside stores of long-established brands in the field such as Chanel, Givenchy and Dior to name a few, Elsa's shop in Paris' Place Vendome is opening its doors again to pick up where it left of, starting a new chapter in haute couture history.
LOUIS VUITTON CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY IN BERLIN
France and Germany join in for the celebration of 30 years of Louis Vuitton, the brand synonymous in everyone's mind and many hearts with élégance française.
Louis Vuitton celebrated its birthday with the opening of its latest concept store in Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Celebrities and influencers from the world of fashion were present to mark the joyous occasion. A combination of craftsmanship, savoir-faire, continuous innovation and heritage - all keywords for the long established brand as well as the city that played host to its celebrations.
Berlin incomparably contemporary dynamism and Parisian haute couture give birth to 'amour toujours'.
The world through Henk Schiffmacher’s “camereyes”
When Texas, Henk Schffmacher's daughter discovered her father's old 35mm negatives in a dusty drawer, she knew they had to be exposed for the world to see.
Dutch tattoo artist, Henk Schiffmacher has become known for his energetic and observational photographic work that is now being collected and exhibited for the first time ever. Highlighting the best and worst facets of modern society, this eclectic ensemble of pictures is a real representation of the world we live in through Schiffmacher's camera.
Taken between 1970 and 1985 these pictures give us a raw insight into the world of youths, bikers and tattoo fetishists from all around the globe – from Las Vegas, L.A., Amsterdam, and Tokyo to Mumbai, Manila, San Francisco and Kuala Lumpur.
This makes for an interesting juxtaposition: a wild mix of cultures, nationalities and excess against the backdrop of vintage cityscapes and timeless scenarios. Schiffmacher's photography offers a unique and brilliant view of the world as it was four decades ago.
Pure, direct and unprecedented just like photography should be.
PIRELLI CALENDAR 2017: An Unfiltered Emotion
“In a time when women are represented in the media and everywhere else, as ambassadors of perfection and youth, I thought it was important to remind everyone that there is a different beauty”
‘Emotional’, the title chosen by Peter Lindbergh for the 2017 edition of the iconic Pirelli Calendar. No other word could strike such a chord in women’s hearts that, nowadays, find themselves fighting against unrealistic beauty standards imposed by society. Fighting to fit in a world in which all things beauty are accompanied by a certain degree of fakery.
Pirelli Calendars have always been seen as conveyors of a specific message of perfection that could be hardly afforded by us, mere mortals. Following Annie Leibovitz’s thread of last year, Lindbergh decided to let beloved actresses shine through their nakedness. Not a nakedness imposed by the lack of garments but by the absence of filters.
The choice of abstaining from Photoshop editing is indeed the leading theme of the 2017 Calendar, which includes actresses like Uma Thurman, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore in all their natural feminine splendor. The beauty that speaks about the courage of being yourself in your own sensibility.
Lindbergh’s message wants to reach all women who feel worthless, despicable, and inadequate in a way that only an artist of his caliber could achieve.
Antony Morato Film Premiere
Antony Morato, the contemporary, Italian fashion brand with international and cosmopolitan terms drew attention to the world of cinema. The brand has partnered with L'Uomo Vogue, the reliable source for men's fashion and lifestyle on the short film "We have to be courageous" presented in Milan which also participates on Fashion Film Festival Milano.
The 5-minute short film, produced by K48, tells of the growth of self-consciousness and the desire with a hedonistic expression representing even one's own identity. The conclusion of the film leaves a feeling of uncertainty back as it represents the change and the final separation of an already defined world. The appearance of the Don Giovanni is finally ready, almost as if he would say, "Here I am". The film is directed by Elisa Fuksas and the viewer can watch the exceptional performance of the lead actor Alessandro Roja.
The story approaches the Antony Morato campaign "I am who I am" on a vivid and lively way. The brand, founded by Lello Caldarelli sends a strong message and a claim, addressed to the contemporary man. Without risk of misunderstanding he realizes that he can understand and interpret his own freedom. This requirement is universal and shows more than ever that Antony Morato invites us to it.
Juun.J Spring Summer 2018
Continuing from last season Juun.J showed Men’s and Women’s collection together once again underlining the genderless aspect of his vision.
Declinations of crisp shirts, white, light blue, or with pin-stripes. Layered and gently floating. Juun.J delivered a beautiful collection in an informal setting where the models circled around a standing audience.
It's a collection that channels a sophisticated summer look where oversized long shirts are wrapped around the body together with the signature's bomber jackets and hoodies.
For her a blue pinstriped over the knee skirt would embrace the body layered over the swiping floor shirts. For him, oversized outwear or deconstructed hoodies would do the game. Sometimes it would be just as beautiful as hard to distinguish the male models amongst the female ones.
White, blue, black, military green interlacing with one beautiful red pleated maxi dress at the end
A series of pin-striped declinations of oversized suits for him an her were certainly the eye-catcher of this season. Long double breasted blazers matched fluid pants, a long split skirt or slim trousers.
Sometime emblematic sentences would resurface from shirts or t-shirts. Almost as an ode to the work of all the young designers who have been building painstakingly an identity like this Korean designer over the last 10 years.
“Life opportunities contracts or expands according to one’s courage” . We can’t but agree.
Dior Homme Spring Summer 2018
Late summer nights. Kris van Assche's new Dior Homme storms in the Grand Palais with a collection imbued with that irreverent and smart spirit we have seen since last Summer show one year ago.
The new wave, the 90s rock, the punk, the party kids, the rave. It's all here, this time declined in beautiful reinvented tailoring with the mesmerizing sound of the pulsing show soundtrack composed by sound artist Frederic Sanchez as backdrop.
A black sleeveless t-shits with a printed “Christian Dior Atelier”, paired with tailored fluid pants with a sort of half blazer attached on top at the waistline. A trompe l’oeil recalling the sleeveless suits walking immediately before.
It is again a sophisticate tale of details, of research, new silhouettes for suiting. Kris van Assche channels again his memories, his early years fascinations in music, art, youth subcultures.
The colour palette is mirroring that dark attitude Dior Homme has been channelling lately: black, red, grey, and classic checks on the same tones, with a splash of mauve and blue.
It’s the rave boy, it’s the cool kid on the block but it is also the duality of dressing up in the night. Leather bomber jackets, shorts, preppy knitted waistcoats, with tie-like scarf casually wrapped around the neck.
It’s this “new cool” on suiting.
The set design made possible an extremely close look on the pieces as they walked in. The signature’s detailing, the stitching, the perfection of the cut. And that atmosphere just out of a late night summer music festival.
Fendi's Fall Winter 2017 Menswear campaign is here!
Fendi’s new advertising campaign for its Fall Winter 2017 Men’s collection is the perfect embodiment of the positive, energetic spirit of the brand’s latest menswear collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi.
The Fendi Vocabulary serves as the collection’s main inspiration and is echoed in the array of simple, modern and desirable pieces that comprise a truly multifaceted collection rife with street style and formal elements; diametrically contrary but complementary nonetheless. From ready-to-wear and fur to bags, shoes and accessories, the entire range is permeated with an uplifting optimistic mood that is echoed on the garments themselves through the word of the Fendi Vocabulary.
When times are tough, optimism remains a shiny beacon of hope. Fundamental values of the past that have been instilled in us like trust, friendship, “LOVE” and “HOPE” carry an unmistakeable energy that urges us to face fears and challenges head-on.
Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by the immortal message of these little words and journeyed into a vademecum of Ernest Hemingway, picking up universal, key words like “LOVE”, “TRY”, “HOPE”, “LISTEN”; in their simplicity these short utterances convey an immortal message of positivity and optimism that can help us in difficult moments.
The campaign’s video, shot in the Canary Island of Lanzarote, highlights the bond between nature and city, humanity and nature, effortlessly bridging notions that may seem disconnected at first glance. C
Chosen for his contagious energy and positivity, model Nicolas Ripoll is seen running and jumping as if in a tribal dance of sorts through the incredible and awe-inspiring volcanic landscapes of the island promoting the brand’s idea of clear-headed optimism and joy in the sight of the future – no matter how rocky it may become.
Check out the preview video here
https://youtu.be/jyJ3FB4LbIc and head to www.fendi.com to discover more from July 14th!
MSGM Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
This season marks a new chapter for Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM after his departure from Emilio Pucci earlier this year. The move has been a catalyst for him to dedicate himself fully to his own brand MSGM, that’s been making street wear waves for quite some times now and shows no sign of slowing down.
Giorgetti’s MSGM Spring/summer 2018 Menswear collection was a well-travelled one. Drawing inspiration from modern street culture has been a constant for the designer who, this time, travelled to sunny California picking up on the inimitable vibes the west coast has to offer. From skaters and latter-day hippies to Burning Man festival-goers, Giorgetti’s references are as current as they are multi-faceted.
This season is all about workwear-inspired apparel in the form of madras parkas reworked into oversized volumes, paired with extra large backpacks. But colour is never far from the designer’s mind who offered his sports-alluding shapes an extra pop by pairing army green with bubblegum pink or turquoise while elsewhere graffiti and watercolour flower motifs elevated nylon ponchos and a chino pantsuit. Thick, cosy knitwear pieces embroidered with boisterous lettering were paired with short shorts and blousons were seen layered over boxy t-shirts.
The MSGM man’s sartorial identity may seem hard to pin down, but that’s exactly where the beauty is: as he floats between identities, influences and moods he picks his battles of rebellion carefully while remaining in the now.
Prada Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Remaining faithful to her eclectic style that has the ability to transform everything, from the most mundane to the most regal, into high fashion, Miuccia Prada turned her gaze to comic books for her Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear collection. You may be thinking of oversized capes a la Superman billowing in the wind but there was none of that!
“On one side there’s virtual reality and on the other the reality of the human part” said Miuccia Prada backstage justifying this season’s inspirations and how these shaped the sporty and streamlined collection presented in a space lined with oversize comic book graphics complete with a light beam-shooting Prada spaceship and speedy steam trains.
Even though comic books may deal at times with the realm of the fantastical, the sci-fi and the bizarre, for Miuccia Prada, it was a different quality they possess that propelled her to utilise them as the central theme of both her collection and runway décor. “They are hand-drawn, human, simple and real”, she said. Need we say more? Shirts with ample shoulders in red or black nylon and sleeves rolled up high, fanny packs and popped collars once reserved to the frat-boy look get the Prada seal of approval this season. Silhouettes were super cinched-in at the waist, a pattern visible throughout many ensembles.
Elsewhere, high technical knit socks were paired with short shorts in bright red or cool, steely grey as if harking back to something that wouldn’t have looked out of place on a 1970s baseball court. Steering away from such a literal interpretation, however, Prada paired the micro shorts with pointed oxfords – there was no Chuck Taylor All Star in sight. For those less keen on showing off their pins, enter the jumpsuit proposed by the iconic fashion house in navy or black, a clear continuation of the utilitarian dressing trend.
Marni Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
“Lost and Found” – the tile of Marni’s Spring Summer 2018 collection that leaves so much to be imagined and so much more to be discovered. Convoluted as the meaning of that phrase may be, for Marni it acted as the catalyst for a collection that preaches the enjoyment of life through self-discovery.
In his second collection as creative director for Marni, Francesco Risso offered a collection of wearable clothes with a non-conformist touch. An air of randomness characterises the collection of roomy trousers and shirts that appear to have been de- and then re-constructed, sometimes held together with the fabric swatches for a DIY allure.
Sailboat prints and Hawaiian motifs make an appearance alongside garments of a more bookish, almost nerdy, nature that stay true to the brand’s retro tones. As Risso himself put it, this season’s pieces ‘surf the typography of a city’. This is office wear on holiday, where a tie on the beach is just as relevant as sailboats on a suit and Jamaican accents paired with a dash of the 20s. Knits appear shrunken and unfinished with their misaligned stripes.
Rules appear to have been thrown out the window here as the Marni man dresses himself freely, as if he were a collector of moments who may intentionally leave items behind only to retrieve them later. Perhaps even finding himself along the way.
Versace Spring/Sumer 2018 Menswear
Passion for the craft of fashion is something that runs deeps at Versace. Hate it or love it, it’s a fact that the roots of the Maison’s values run deep and are intrinsically connected to family. As this year marks the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s tragic death, it may come as no surprise that this collection was partly a homage to Gianni himself, a fresher take on the codes that cemented him as a household name in fashion.
Pinstripes are refreshed and remixed with stong-shouldered tailoring or shirts where pinstripes are made to contrast and clash with one another. Powerful prints were added to the mix this season: the utility of a tech blouson is contrasted with the romantic “Balletto” print while the “Angelo” print that appears on a sharp quilted bomber. Elsewhere, a classic Versace logo looks totally new, embroidered in white stitches on a baby blue or pale pink T-shirt, worn with matching straight leg jeans.
The menswear offering was accompanied by a special womenswear capsule collection designed and presented entirely to complement the men’s. Chock-full of pinstripes, cut-and-clashed prints and rich embroideries the models strutted down the catwalk with black headbands reminiscent of Gianni’s last couture show.
"This collection is like a homecoming. It's about the passions that define Versace, the complexity of men, the energy of today," said Donatella Versace.
HUGO Spring/Summer 2018 Fashion Show
Presenting its mens- and womenswear Spring/Summer 2018 collection, HUGO transformed a factory in Florence into a candle-lit fashion show.
As a tribute to the spirit of the artist, the collection and the space itself illustrated all kinds of sketches and paint strokes that symbolises art and expression. An artist's unconventional perspective upon things, living according to his own rules with an sensitive yet careless attitude, just like the brand characteristics of HUGO, served as inspiration for the collection.
Many of the styles are in collaboration with the Designer Charles Jeffrey, with cut and shape inspired from the first HUGO collection from the year 1993, alongside completely redefined tailoring. The collection also presented oversize jackets and jumpsuits to create a unisex look with a color palette inspired from the artist's studio, reaching from neutral tones to shades of blue, yellow and of course the classic HUGO red.
For HUGO, this Spring/Summer collection is also all about the accessories. From oversized men’s bags, sneakers with chunky soles, to long earrings or pearl chains, they all contributed to a playful look.
Amongst M.I.A, Anwar Hadid and many others, present at the show was also ZOO Magazine’s current cover star, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, all wearing head-to-toe HUGO.
The Beats and The Vanities, Larry Fink Exhibition at Armani/SIlos
A collection of exquisite black and white photographs from Larry Fink’s The Beats and The Vanities books will comprise the latest exhibition at Armani/Silos. The exhibition presents a unique opportunity for the legendary photographer’s work and idiosyncratic vision to be experienced as one as they have never before been shown together before.
Giorgio Armani himself is a great fan of Larry Fink’s work, finding his ability to capture form and line in such a fluid way something he can relate to as well as a designer. “Fink is a jazz fan, and you can almost view these images in terms of musical composition – people in flow, surprising us, possessing an unconscious sensuality”, he adds.
Born in Brooklyn and raised in a progressive and politically active family, Fink cut his teeth as a photographer as part of the late beat generation, when he hooked up with a group of beats at the age of 17. Political activism, protests and marches formed the photographers worldview who documented the times through his medium-format camera.
His pictures serve as a time capsule and a candid look into his world, perfectly capturing the sense of romance and rebellion that characterised the underground jazz-fuelled youth movement of the time. A regular editorial contributor for prestigious titles such as The New Yorker and Vanity Fair, it was the latter that recognised his ability to bring them something different if let loose to create.
His visual record of the famous and their surrounding courtiers is not concerned with who’s who – rather it focuses on what’s happening. As Fink himself describes it, he tries to embrace the souls of all people, regardless of their conditions.
The Beats and The Vanities, Photographs by Larry Fink will be on show at the Armani/Silos until the end of July 2017.
Dior Fall/Winter 2017
Taking the reins of a legendary fashion house is always a challenge. Maria Grazia Chiuri is not new to the job. She, together with Pier Paolo Piccioli, took the helm of Valentino one year after Sir Garavani’s retirement, keeping high the stakes of the house, bringing it back to international acclaim.
At her second collection for Dior, Chiuri’s wish to bring a revolution and play with the house’s codes is even more clear. She is a woman, and as every Italian woman, she is naturally engaged in elevating women’s power and society’s perception of the female stance. If you were expecting a Valentino’s modus operandi you were mistaken.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is not easily affected by predictions. She has a vision and she is certainly not playing the safe card. Dior Fall Winter 2017 was entirely declined in shades of blue, a blue that Chiuri found in the archives of Dior – particularly on a taffeta silk dress designed in ’54 - and quickly got fascinated by. It’s the blue of uniforms, of elegant evening dresses and certainly of denim. It’s a young contemporary collection. Chiuri wishes to picture the contemporary woman emerging the tense political climate of our time.
Last season’s motto “We should be all feminists” left the place to a more consistent and strong statement where the clothes speak by themselves. The basques created by Stephen Jones give a further accent in this sense. It almost as we see a troupe of suffragettes, marching one after the other advocating women’s freedom to dress however they find fit.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
Loewe’s creative director J.W. Anderson is transforming this luxury Spanish leather brand into an impressive fashion house where cultural references, design, architecture, and the beautiful leather craftsmanship coexist.
Like for his eponymous label, Anderson is able to create a dialogue between the arts, where fashion is at its centre, without any stretch. The romantic and enchanting feeling reminiscent of Gone with the Wind’s Rossella O’Hara ball gowns together with a playful splash of Commedia Dell’Arte’s Pierrot and Harlequin, where the polka dots and the western hat felt perfectly parts of the same image. But also the signature handkerchief hem dresses and a parade of countless accessories declined in new colours like the polka dot iconic puzzle bag.
As in every season we see experimentations with butter lamb leather in exceptional peplum waist-cinching tops, dresses, suits, outwear in a variety of colours: lipstick red, moss green, and the forever favourite almond and black. There are so many fascinations Anderson took into account for Loewe Fall Winter 2017 and it just feel fresh and captivating.
Nicholas Kirkwood Fall/Winter 2017
“The Dark Matters”, for Fall/Winter 2017 Nicholas Kirkwood created a series of monochromatic shoes with a strong 80s aesthetic.
Geometric and graphic lines adorn the heels and boots for this strong and architectural collection. The English designer - inspired by artists like Daniel Buren - used a sculptural approach and the forever-favourite feminine/masculine dichotomy references.
The austerity of black in contrast with lurex and silver mirror smooth leather uppers, plexi-heels, pearls inlaid into a metal frame sole and luxurious black suede, adorn the collection in a play of contrasts. The name of the collection also refers to a new fabric created by Kirkwood: a black glittering stretchy textile used for a new sock-boot and a slip-on mule. It’s a rich and sophisticated collection with new silhouettes and the omnipresent irreverent mood of Kirkwood’s work
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have come to a point in fashion when history has been elevated without precedent. There is a lot of the 80s Monsieur Yves we know in the new Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. For Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2017 there is again a respectful reference to the history but also a lot of the Vaccarello DNA that we have seen in his eponymous label for many years.
That sexiness, that daring and fierce attitude the Italo-Belgian designer infused in his own shows season after season before becoming the new creative director of the historical Maison. And then there is the show vibe. Anthony Vaccarello presented his second collection for Saint Laurent in a surreal, and provoking atmosphere inside the under-construction site of the new brand’s head quarters in rue Bellechasse at the Left Bank of the Seine. The rain pouring down, the scaffolding as backdrop, the loud pulsing music as in any squat party, was the perfect set as to declare a new beginning, the shaping of the new identity of Saint Laurent in fieri.
Bold short dresses in velvet, caramel and black leather matched with long up-to-the-neck gloves as to create a tromp l’oeil effect for maxi shoulders. Thigh-high boots in patent leather and rhinestones with ruches - sure to become the obsession of next season. But also strong day looks with an invasive sense of masculinity: denim with mohair sweaters, shearling jackets, or a simple tee. It’s that subversive soul that Yves Saint Laurent himself was known for. It’s that unexpected atmosphere that everyone is waiting with anticipation at this fashion house. As his predecessor, Vaccarello will make everyone want to wear his clothes. With no exceptions.
UGG is REAL
A new global marketing Spring/Summer 2017 campaign has been launched by UGG to break down stereotypes.
Aptly titled “REAL” and bearer of a strong message, the campaign features a collective of authentic Californian artists, musicians, surfers, creatives and eccentrics that in their provocative, progressive and free spirited attitudes mirror the core values of the Californian fashion apparel.
Inspired by the beaches, mountains and iconic architecture of California, the stories of Tasya, the songs of Warm Brew, the trips of Colleen and many others will mix together to give birth to a whole contemporary romance where diversity is the main splendid character.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017
British actor Matthew Goode fronts the new Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017 ad campaign perfectly embodying the mix of elegance and contemporary tradition that defines the brand's aesthetic.
Shot by German photographer Dylan Don outdoors in the ground-breaking Muralla Roja compound is Calpe, Spain, designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofil, Goode displays a unique and controlled attitude against the sun-soaked hues of the buildings.
Color, light and the graphic lines of both the location and the clothes play a key role in expressing the essence of the collection and its distinctive mismatch of 3D textures, volumes and shiny/matte effects, all awash in terracotta red, turquoise, plum, sky blue and burnt orange. The striking architecture of the Muralla Roja building, characterized by interlocking strairs, platforms and bridges, exalts a lifestyle appeal that Goode elevates with his effortless and dynamic sprit, melding time-honored savoir-faire with a fashion-forward twist.
Lala Berlin's Persian Punk revolution
Lala Berlin's Fall/Winter 2017 collection epitomises the metropolis of Berlin in an anarchic big-city chic way with a fresh attitude. Thus is born an ode to the unconventional yet elegant women that reinvented themselves as Persian punks.
Beautiful arts and crafts in architecture and textiles are the inspirations for a wardrobe that mixes punk and ethnic elements in such an authentic and modern way. A boheme and avant-garde style is conveyed in a variety of silhouettes from H-lines to flowy A-silhouettes and oversized asymmetric overlays. Feminine cuts, kimonos and tunic dresses give birth to the Lala’s punk-chic evening wear.
The color palette fades within dark chic colors like khaki, dark red, ink blue and black mixed with warm saffron yellow and cream interjected with vibrant and lush elements from middle eastern traditional art. Vibrant print ideas are reimagined in Berlin 80’s punk fused with Persian décor and floral elements are transformed into something new and fresh that reminds us of a mosaic print.
Frayed edges and star lace trimmings give a certain sense of poetic punk bohemia to dresses, skirts and shirting. Knits, iconic elements of Lala’s wardrobe that incorporate jacquards with frayed details are a sumptuous tapestry of textures.
The Persian punk girl gets out her Dr. Martens and leather accessories to inspire an anarchic revolution, to think about the future while redefining her style and inspiring change for the better.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2017
A mobius of forms, shaped in the seam lines, leading to dramatic volumes. Beautifully balanced but also true to his roots, Glenn Martens created a collection where Y/Project's identity is declined to a new sphere, all played through Martens’ all-time favourite ironic approach to dualities.
The low and the high, the elites and the masses, deconstructed garments and slouchy fits. Between historical reinvention and street culture, Y/Project's Menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2017 continues to master that relaxed and youthful attitude that has characterized Martens’ work from the start.
Doubled silk shirts, deconstructed faux fur, reinvented corduroy suits, slouchy oversized track suits straight from a rapper's videoclip, followed by the impressive sweatsuits with wired piping in a blobbing volume, reminiscent of that mantle draping we have seen on 1808 Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’s portrait of Napoleon.
As Napoleon and consort printed on scarves in football merch fashion - part of Martens' playful reference along with other royal couples such as Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette - steal the scene and we cannot choose. We can only root for this talented Belgian designer.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
A small trumpet as an earring, a shopper completely covered in off-white cable knit wool, a thin leather belt with an ominous brass nose on its centre. The collection of objets trouvés that populated Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 is not a new element for the quirky mind of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The mix of fun, classic, and urban elements is something we have seen season after season where individuality has been the key. Beautiful leatherwork as rooted in the brand's Spanish heritage, but also Anderson’s favourite hints to fishermen and sailors’ daily-life. Presented in the Parisian showroom the collection is the image of a further complexity and playful daring attitude from the English designer now in his fourth year at the helm of Loewe.
It was certainly the beautiful shearling one of the spotlight of the collection. In deep cobalt blue with black leather details, in denim, or in a striped rainbow coloured version, to pump up our gloomy mood in rainy, cold Paris.
Mixed and matched tartans and handbags with imaginary propaganda newspaper titles gave a further energising accent to a splendid collection full of craftsmanship and a romantic post-industrial atmosphere.
Esther Perbandt's androgynous Fall/Winter 2017 collection
Perbandt's anti-cyclical collection for the colder seasons featured visionary garments that play with the slightest of contrast between black and white and gender. The designer is famous for touching upon human limitations delicately, forgetting about diversity and giving birth to a brand that strikes the perfect balance between androgyny and independence.
Esther Perbandt has been internationally recognised for her trademark stage productions. The Fall/Winter 2017 show only reinforced her status with a veritably unconventional yet sophisticated event that attracted celebrities from around the globe as well as personalities from the world of design, art and fashion; collectively they paid homage to a powerful production.
GmbH Fall/Winter 2017: When a thought becomes you
In a Society of Limitations where people are together yet alone, GmbH addresses the situation with an inclusive Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to different shapes, gestures and manners.
The collection paired fashion with sustainability featuring bi-colour cropped GmbH biker jackets reworked from recycled, reversible Helly Hansen puffer coats, cropped jersey hoodies and fine knit athletic bodies of partially recycled fibres. A shot of glamour is given by tight lycra and velvet long-sleeved jumpers in a color palette inspired by artist Alexandra Bircken. Moreover traditional carpenter’s guild trousers and gold embroideries enrich the outfits for an even more personal touch.
As GmbH declared: “These are directives for care and wear, eine wahre Geschichte, eine Warengeschichte, a true story a history of wares.”
Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017
Thousands of little flags suspended from the Grand Palais ceiling, as one of those summer festivals when the night breeze brush them gently. The coloured lights illuminating the room mimicking the stage reflectors of any hard rock concert we have attended in our teens.
When the Depeche Mode lyrics started to play and the lights went up revealing the cardboard boxes and “HARDIOR” packing tape paving the regal space, it all came together.
Kris Van Assche channelled his childhood memories in 90s Antwerp clubs, the music, the parties, creating an electrifying collection that explored not only the new course of Dior Homme after 10 years at its reigns but also the possible declination of modern tailoring.
Van Assche designed the suit for the young man, a dialogue between the cool boy party animal and formal clothing. Close fit blazer revealing baste stitching matched with relaxed loose high waist trousers worn with trainers and white socks. Winking to street-wear.
A sweater with the clustered image of monsieur Christian Dior himself - whose birthday was surprisingly the day of the show - and the sentence written right below “They should just let us rave” turned quickly the attention to a more rebellious side of Van Assche: the gothic sweeping floor length capes and teddy bear chain trousers, the hand painted short fur bomber jackets, the aquamarine jumpers and the orange pony double breasted trench coat.
The Belgian designer picked the candy boys, the gabba, the new wave and the mosch pits at raves as his references. The latter, illustrated by the hand of American artist Dan Witz and printed in few closing looks - like the intricate reverse sequins suit - gave a poignant accent to the whole collection.
Dior Homme is beautifully evolving into a strong luxury fashion brand and as the light goes down we can’t help but be excited, like the post feeling of any great concert.
PORTS 1961 LOVERS ARMY
PORTS 1961 Fall/Winter 2017 collection is all about love and its universal meaning. A collection that is minimalist and gives off a younger appeal than past seasons, will definitely warm your wardrobe and your heart.
The Ports 1961 man is ready to face whatever the day has in store. From protective sports clothing inspired by urban workwear to construction suits. Materials are primarily sober, solid and thick, giving a touch of virility to a pretty chic sportswear collection. In the contrasting palette of black, grey, red and orange, reversible bombers, slit sleeves’ coats, studded blousons and piped trousers are just a bite of this collection that sees heart and love all over it.
Details are what bring this collection its tempo – camouflage prints adored by Milan Vukmirovic are reworked and the quintessential white shirt is embellished with a blood red embroidered heart.
Rocking it with Dior Homme
A utopian sense of refined grunge has always characterized Kris Van Assche's creative direction at Dior. For Dior Homme Summer 2017, Van Assche's dynamic energy is reflected through a new generation of four inspired characters: A$AP ROCKY, Boy George, Rami Malek and Ernst Klimko.
A 'do it Yourself' attitude runs through the brand's creative direction this season, a path that the four diverse Dior Homme personalities will follow, eventually converging to personify the house's vision of Homme. The campaign's four faces may embody different disciplines of modern art but through Van Assche's direction, they provide an all-encompassing, cohesive undertone for the French house's men's collection.
Interestingly, hip-hop is made elegant in this line giving birth to intriguing pieces such as the dark floral garments designed by Japanese artist Toru Kamei.
Shot through the streets of Paris and in studio by photographer Willy Vanderperre, the campaign pairs heritage and an innovative rock, raw-edge mood that will undoubtedly make it a key player in Dior's already impressive campaign portfolio.
Invictus and Olympéa Intense: Paco Rabanne’s divine fragrances
Radical, free, avant-garde. These codes are at the core of Paco Rabanne both in fashion and scents. Invictus and Olympéa Intense are the ultimate unconventional and open to fantasy scents representing two exceptional figures that together create an explosive encounter.
Invictus is man in all his force, robustly pure and athletic. It plays on the shock between blazing amber woods and a marine “salty skin” accord, in a woody-fresh wake. Green-aromatic laurel leaf and orange blossom electrified by notes of black pepper are added to give an intensified, sensual effect. The bottle, dark and sculptural, represents what the Invictus man is all about: an infallible hero who never gives in, a God on earth.
Olympéa empowers women by taking sensuality up a notch. Salty vanilla wrapped up in cashmere wood is at the base of the scent enriched by a duel in which opposites attract. On one side a floral pulse given by white pepper, orange flower and grapefruit blossom. On the other, the warmth of white amber and cedar wood. A glass circular bottle in metal colors represents the perfect construction between geometrical strength and curves, embodying the sacred female of Olympéa, the divine queen.
Nike Air Max 97: the Silver side of Italians
As the homeland of prêt-à-porter, Italy has always introduced new ways of fashion appreciation that we've all emulated at some point or another. Nike's 'La Silver' sneaker has been, and remains to this day, a strong example of this very concept.
When this sneaker made its first appearance in the fashion market in 1997, it failed to capture the hearts of fashion-forward Italians. It was snubbed, regarded as ugly, weird, otherworldly even. For others, those were La Silver's winning characteristics, making this model the star of 20th century footwear trends in Italy.
For a decade, its ostentatious shine and sleek lines made it a staple in many young Italians' Christmas wish lists. As a symbol of Italian gabber dancing culture and futurism, this sneaker was offered in colour variations that never went unnoticed. It wasn't long before La Silver had snuck its way into the hearts and wardrobes of both fashion addicts and proponents of a more 'chav chic' aesthetic.
Straight out of its homeland, “La Silver” by Nike is back on the market after 20 years. This makes us wonder: is this a new icon for this generation or a mere throwback for those who were there from the start?
DIESEL creates ALRITE: the timeless watch that takes art to the street
To do good and in an innovative way has always been considered one of Diesel's mottos. This winter and in collaboration with Fossil, the Italian brand has undoubtedly hit its target with its latest project: the Diesel ALRITE timepieces.
Cut out from 150 square meters of original artwork by Rostarr, who collaborated in the design of this accessory, ALRITE is literally a work of art that endures the passage of time while paying homage to both art and Diesel’s DNA.
The 555 pieces that make up this Limited edition collection are completely unique and each different from one another, making for one-of-a-kind watches. This feeling of exclusivity is exactly what this hand-wrapped genuine leathers watch brings to the wearer by intertwining the aspects of time and timelessness.
Moreover Diesel ALRITE teams up with Sotheby’s to reinforce the message of not only bringing art back, but also doing so for a good cause. Three pieces from this unique collection will be auctioned via e-bay for charity. Funds will be donated to the Only The Brave Foundation that has been working with Diesel for many years to fight against social inequality and working on sustainable development across the world.
“Create products that draw the line between pragmatic and fashion forward” this mission has been definitely brought to life.
KENZO X EASTPAK…and CHARITY
Once again the iconic Padded Pak’r® backpack by Eastpak will serve as the “carte blanche” given to a selection of the world’s most influential designers to create a unique work of art.
When it comes to creativity and eccentricity, Kenzo, one of the brands participating in Eastpak’s Artist Studio competition along with Giambattista Valli and Vêtements, never disappoints giving birth to a “never-seen-before” piece. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s prints trimmed with a tiger claw key holder and a graphic Kenzo towel and hat, were assembled in a collage that not only twins Eastpak and Kenzo, but fashion and charity too.
The collection, comprised of one-off creations from each designer will drop on the 1st of December, World AIDS day. And for a good cause too: all proceeds go to the Designers Against AIDS organization to raise awareness, even among fashion victims, for HIV/AIDS.
Future, Present, Past, The Strokes Travel Back In Time
It has been pretty quiet from the American indie-rock band front in recent years, however the wait for new music has come to an end. The Strokes last studio album Comedown Machine was released back in 2013, but they decided to cut off from social media and not promote the album, with only a few performances here and there. The new EP Future, Present, Past is available now for you to enjoy. Lead singer Julian Casablancas debuted OBLIVIUS on his own radio show, Culture Void on Sirius XMU. The extended play consists of four tracks, three original new songs and a remix of OBLIVIUS, by Moretti. The band completely distinguish themselves from what’s currently on the hit lists and sticks to what works for them, which results in a moody but balanced album soothing for the upcoming summer. It’s a satisfying new addition to your vacation playlist.